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vol 309 • June 2023
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LOCAL INSIGHT. GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE. Group of Companies Borneo Vision Sdn Bhd (295020-P) Borneo Vision (MM2H) Sdn Bhd (735406-W) TEG Digital Sdn Bhd (286845-U) Tri-Concepts Sdn Bhd (204389-P)
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Publisher J. Andrew Davison Group Editor Chad Merchant Production Editor Joanne Tan Contributing Writers David Bowden, Yukeshwaran Devadas, Jonathan Di Rollo Commercial Director Bill Cooper Business Development Director Nick Atkinson Sales Team Emily Tang, Olivia Yap IT Director Rusli Arshad Digital Marketing Jasmine Spera Web Developer Nur Farhanah Faisali Events Manager Antoinette Perera MM2H Manager Suriah Ali Finance / Admin – Senior Manager Khoo Poh Lian Events Management Consultant - JB Poonam Singh
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Recently, I wrote about what I saw as a major opportunity for Malaysia to take advantage of the soaring rents being charged in Singapore by enticing regional headquarters in Singapore to move to Malaysia. Underscoring the issue, the European Chamber of Commerce in Singapore has disclosed a survey they conducted early this year in cooperation with numerous other chambers there which revealed that many companies and expats are considering leaving the city-state as rental prices continue to skyrocket. This has received coverage in the international media and generated several spin-off articles about soaring rents, most recently by the BBC. The survey conducted by EuroCham reported that for half the employees who had to renew their housing lease this year or last year, the rental increase exceeded 40 percent. It warned that Singapore was facing an exodus of expats and companies if something could not be done to mitigate the growing problem. One obvious solution is for some of these companies to relocate to Malaysia, which would ease demand in Singapore and greatly benefit Malaysia. Given the fact that Singapore is home to thousands of regional headquarters, this presents an excellent opportunity for Malaysia to attract some of them. The benefits of hosting regional headquarters are significant. Not least, they are usually cost centres, and so it means money being remitted into Malaysia. Contrast that with foreign companies which set up business operations here, which certainly benefits the country but ultimately the goal is to make profits that are remitted back to the company’s home country. There are some obvious other benefits to specific industries in Malaysia, such as the property sector both residential and commercial, as well as the airlines which fly here. It could present an opportunity for Malaysia Airlines to gain substantial business, not least because many of the senior staff based here would fly in premium cabins. It should be equally obvious that Malaysia’s international image could also benefit if it became known as a popular location for regional headquarters. Most expats who live here are positive about the lifestyle they enjoy and would promote it. We have approached several different organizations offering to assist should they wish to pursue this opportunity, which now very clearly exists. It would need to be a coordinated and targeted marketing campaign and would require a number of obstacles to be addressed. Surprisingly (or perhaps not), the response was lukewarm. We can obtain no explanation for this, but it may well be that they share our views that the country is still not ready for an influx of foreigners. We have written a number of articles on this subject, and our research has shown resident expats also share the view that Malaysia is no longer friendly to foreigners. Even more relevant – and somewhat ironically – the current government, when they were in opposition, recognised there was a problem and recommended a change of attitude towards foreigners. Now that they are in power, we have not seen much evidence of change, but here and there, there are a few indications that things may be changing. One Minister claimed there would faster processing of employment passes, and another announced that the terms and conditions for the MM2H visa would be reviewed. However, we have yet to see what changes will actually happen, let alone any implementation. Clearly, any company relocating their headquarters here would need assurances that all the work permits they need for their senior staff would be issued as well as for any management trainees they employ. From that perspective, it is possible Malaysia is not yet ready to take advantage of this and other countries may benefit instead. Let’s stay positive.
J. Andrew Davison
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june 2023
volume 309
contents
cover photo: red headed trogon by Stephen HogG • Story on page 30
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EVENTS • NEWS • COLUMNS 6 Expat News 8 Events 9 Almost Home by Chad Merchant 10 TEG Mingle 12 TEG Penang Mingle FEATURES 14 Expat Living: A Prescription for Better Living 16 Expat Living: Living La Vida Malaysia 18 Festival Without Borders 19 From Mexico to Malaysia 20 Megadiverse: The Wonder of Malaysia’s Iconic Wildlife 26 Cool as a Cucumber 48 Holistic Wellness at Sunway Sanctuary 49 A Thousand Lives Changed 50 The Cradle of Culture: Inside Penang’s Temple of Fine Arts 70 Beyond Rice EXPAT EXCURSIONS 30 Fraser’s Hill: A Birdwatcher’s Paradise 34 Luxury in Langkawi 42 Myanmar’s Shin Pyu Novitiation Ceremony 46 Airline and Travel News EDUCATION 54 School Snaps EXPAT INFORMATION 55 Introduction 56 Dining 60 Food & Drink 68 Shopping and Services
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news EXPATRIATE SERVICES DIVISION STREAMLINING PROCEDURES There have been some announcements about speeding up the processing of employment passes. A recent change in the procedure is one step in the right direction. Companies have to apply for their own work permits and set up a direct account with immigration to submit their requests online. Previously, after setting up their company, they would then have to submit a projection of the number of employment passes they anticipated needing for the year. Once this projection was approved, they were able to submit individual applications. Effective April 1, they have now changed the procedure so that immediately after submitting the initial projection of the total number of expat positions being requested, companies can start submitting individual applications. Anyone who submitted their projection before April 1 and is awaiting approval should resubmit their request and can immediately submit their individual applications. EMPLOYMENT PASS CHANGE Working expats in Malaysia have been used to having a full-page visa sticker applied in their passport when their employment pass is approved and the endorsem*nt issued. Now, it seems that has changed. We have been advised that with effect from last December, physical visas are no longer being issued for renewals. (Physical visas for expats’ initial employment passes will presumably still be issued.) The visa will be online in Immigration’s own system, and a printed e-pass copy and QR code are made available for those who’d like a printed version to
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keep together with their passport. For more details, visit the Expatriate Services Division website at esd.imi. gov.my. SINGAPORE PROPERTY STAMP DUTY For some time, Singapore has been concerned about the rising prices of property in the country. In order to slow down demand, they introduced additional buyers stamp duty in 2011 for any foreigners buying properties. Most buyers came from China and Malaysia, but the extra duty did not slow down demand as much as they anticipated, so they have raised the rate a few times. As of last year, the additional duty had risen to 30% of the price of the property and this was on top of the basic stamp duty which is imposed on a sliding scale of up to 6% of the price. Singaporean citizens pay a lower rate and are exempt from the additional charge on their first purchase. However, nothing seemed to really work so now they have doubled the rate imposed on foreign buyers to 60% of the price. Citizens of a few countries like the United States, Norway, and Iceland are exempt from this additional duty because their countries have free trade agreements with Singapore. However, this group apparently hasn’t been making many property purchases, anyway. It is somewhat ironic that Malaysia is struggling to sell completed properties that remain unsold, while just a few kilometers further south, they are facing real problems with the high demand despite raising duty rates repeatedly to disincentivize purchases. INFLATION IN 2022 WAS 3.3% Overall inflation in Malaysia was
officially 3.3% last year, although it varied quite a bit by category, with food and beverage rising at close to 6% and restaurants and hotels by 5%. No doubt expats, who often purchase imported goods, would have faced higher price increases as the ringgit has weakened against a number of currencies in the last two years. Shipping issues and other logistics challenges frequently compounded the problems for imported goods. The 2022 inflation rate is generally in line with the country’s average inflation rate for the last few decades, although immediately after Covid struck, the cost of living dropped which contributed to a higher inflation rate last year as the economy began its recovery. PLOTS TO OVERTHROW THE GOVERNMENT? Various news articles have mentioned shadowy plans by opposition parties to try and overthrow the current government. This would be exceedingly unfortunate, as many people are hoping that Anwar’s party will get an opportunity to change the Malaysian political scene. He has repeatedly stated his desire to address the country’s serious problems with corruption and engage in a more transparent government. Many people think he may be the person to achieve it. There seems to be considerable discontent among Malaysians, who are very upset after years of what they consider to be widespread corruption among politicians and a lack of stability in the government. On the positive side, a survey done in February revealed that about two-thirds of those polled were satisfied with the new government. The upcoming local elections in several states will be
another test of how the voters think the government is performing. Former Prime Minister Mahathir (now 97 years old) is apparently unwilling to retreat from the political scene to quietly enjoy his remaining years, and now seems to be conducting an ongoing campaign to attack and unseat Anwar. Mahathir has even allied himself with his former foe, Abdul Hadi Awang, who leads the fundamentalist Islamic party, PAS. Another recent former Prime Minister, Muhyiddin Yassin, who was continuously attacking Anwar when he first came to power, seems to have reduced his attacks but they may be due to the legal jeopardy he is facing for charges of abuse of power and money laundering. MALAYSIA RANKS POORLY IN ECONOMIST’S CRONY CAPITALISM INDEX The Economist magazine produces an annual index showing the extent to which crony capitalism affects peoples’ livelihoods. The index shows which countries these people benefited the most to the detriment of other citizens. Russia headed the list, which is no surprise given the publicity given to the billionaire friends of President Vladimir Putin. Perhaps rather more surprisingly, though the Czech Republic was second, while Malaysia was in third place. This country has long been known as a place where wellconnected friends of the government have managed to gather considerable and often unexplainable wealth. Fortunately, this has not prevented ordinary Malaysians from improving their livelihoods (as evidenced by the proliferation of modern cars on the road), but it would almost certainly have been better if the playing field was more level. It’s also safe to suggest
that rural Malaysians have not benefitted nearly as much as urbandwelling ones, and those in East Malaysia have seen comparatively little upward mobility, despite most of the nation’s resources actually coming from Sabah and Sarawak. Even more surprisingly, Singapore was ranked in fourth place, showing that a country can be rated very highly on a lot of positive global indexes, yet still struggle with issues of cronyism. The fact that one family, and one party, have dominated the Singapore political scene since 1959 obviously allowed cronyism to become prevalent. TOTAL BAN ON PLASTIC BAGS The Malaysian government has announced that by 2025, they will implement a complete ban on the use of plastic bags for retail purposes. Several state governments have already banned the use of plastic bags for supermarkets and retail outlets – to varying degrees – but now it will apparently be extended nationwide and also apply to roadside stalls. It is estimated that over 80 countries around the world have introduced bans on plastic bag use. African countries are reported to be heavy users of plastic, but most of the restrictions so far introduced have been in Europe and the States. An exception is Kenya, which banned single-use plastic bags five years ago and has seen a noticeable improvement in plastic waste, but apparently, plastic bags are still sold illegally because of their low cost and convenience. Malaysia’s plans are certainly taking a stepin the right direction, but eliminating plastic bags completely will probably be a challenge.
DRUG TESTING ON ARRIVAL The UK Consulate has adjusted its website to report that Malaysia has stated they will give people a urine test at the airport if they suspect arriving passengers are under the influence of drugs. This is consistent with the tough stand the country has taken on drugs, particularly in contrast with Thailand, which recently eased its laws regarding marijuana. Meanwhile, the Home Minister has announced they will propose a bill in parliament that will decriminalize the possession and self-administration of small quantities of drugs. This would avoid drug users from being subject to the harsh penalties imposed on drug traffickers. It seems Malaysia is slowly following Western countries which have adopted less harsh treatment for drug users and even small-time dealers. Despite harsh penalties, there are still people ignorant or desperate enough to try and smuggle drugs. Singapore routinely executes these low-level couriers, claiming it is an effective deterrent but many people question how effective it is. The fact is people are still risking their lives doing it. MM2H REVISION: WHAT’S HAPPENING? After the initial announcement that they would be reviewing the terms and conditions for the Malaysia My Second Home Visa, with the widespread presumption of another revision, there has been silence about what is happening and no indication of what might be planned. We have offered our support to the government but so far, they have not expressed any interest in involving us. It seems the days when they wanted as much input as possible from expats – and also other MM2H agencies – are over.
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U pc om ing E ve nt s
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& 2 June Gawai Dayak Festival Gawai Dayak is an annual festival celebrated by the Dayak people in East Malaysia, particularly in Sarawak and Indonesia’s West Kalimantan. This vibrant cultural event honours the harvest season and serves as a time for the Dayak community to express gratitude to their ancestors and spirits. The festival features traditional music, dances, rituals, and a feast known as makan tiang, where a bamboo pole filled with delicious local delicacies symbolizes unity and abundance. Tuak, a traditional rice wine made from fermented glutinous rice or other local ingredients, plays a big role, too. An integral part of Dayak culture, tuak is offered to the spirits and ancestors during the festival as a gesture of respect and gratitude. It is also shared among the community as a symbol of unity and togetherness. Gawai Dayak showcases the rich heritage and strong bond of the Dayak people with their land and traditions.
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June Latin American Festival Food, music, dance, and an all-around great time – that’s what you can expect at the latest edition of the Latin American Festival. A celebration of the captivating cultures of a range of Latin American nations including Venezuela, Uruguay, Perú, México, Cuba, Colombia, Chile, Brazil, and Argentina, this all-day festival is definitely something you want to put on your calendar. Scan the QR code on the event flyer for more details, and get ready for a culturecentred affair that’s sure to be a fun festival!
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-25 June Rainforest World Music Festival An internationally renowned music festival held annually in Sarawak, the RWMF showcases a diverse range of traditional and contemporary music from around the world, with a particular emphasis on indigenous and folk genres. The festival takes place amidst the lush backdrop of the Borneo rainforest, creating a unique and magical atmosphere. For more details, see page 19.
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& 25 June Aaron Kwok Amazing Kode World Tour After an eight-year absence from Malaysia, fans will finally get to see Hong Kong superstarAaron Kwokperforming live in the country. Calling this a long wait is definitely an understatement. TheAaron Kwok Amazing Kode World Tour 2023 will see the star meeting his Malaysian fans for two back-to-back nights at Genting Highlands. Watch the Hong Kong singer bring the best of his classics to the stage, such asI Love You Forever,Love’s Calling,Generation Next,Crazy City, andPara Para Sakura. The concerts will be at theArena of Stars at Resorts World, Genting Highlands with tickets starting at RM118 at premier. ticketcharge.com.my.
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& 30 June Hari Raya Aidiladha Also known as Hari Raya Haji or Hari Raya Qurban, this festival marks the culmination of the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca (Mekah), a journey which is performed by millions of Muslims annually. In Malaysia, the date is a public holiday, and adherents celebrate the festival with prayers, gatherings, and of course plenty of good food!
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almost home TEG Media’s Group Editor Chad Merchant chose to move from the United States to Malaysia in 2008 to experience living in a different country. Now, 14 years later, he certainly recognises those differences, yet feels, in some ways, almost home. Feel free to drop a line to [emailprotected].
Everyone Different. All Equal.
O
ne challenging thing for expats is finding a comfortable personal balance between accepting (or at least overlooking) negative things about a host country and wanting to change them. I think this gets harder to do the longer you live in a foreign country, simply because as more time goes by, the more you tend to think of it as home. And for expats who have a heart for activism, it’s got to be tough at times. As for myself, I am not in that category. Even on the more notable controversies of the day, I seldom get so amped up that I’m motivated to go roaring off to join a protest or give a fiery speech. I do have opinions about many things, of course, but I have always tended to approach things with a ‘live and let live’ mindset. But when I see certain injustices, I am bothered – though unfortunately not enough to do much more than post a comment about it online. And when everyone does what I do – which is to say, not much – injustices continue unchecked.
supports equality for all, including their LGBT fans. To make the point, Hassan shared a photo of Coldplay frontman Chris Martin, who is straight, holding a rainbow flag in support for the LGBT community. Following Hassan’s call to cancel the show, several government ministers and other prominent leaders rebuked the PAS leader and rubbished his calls, creating yet another ‘controversy’ that’s landed Malaysia in international news. What many people may not know is that Coldplay, years before making plans for their first concert in Malaysia, sponsored a large river-cleaning watercraft called the Interceptor 005, the second such craft to ply the Klang River. Paying some RM3.2 million to sponsor the huge watercraft to clean one of Malaysia’s most notoriously polluted rivers, Coldplay proved their outspoken support for environmental causes was real – and Malaysia was a big beneficiary of their philanthropy. (And this is the thanks they get. As the saying goes, “No good deed goes unpunished.”)
For some reason, a recent incident (or two) agitated me more than usual. The first was the absolutely inexplicable uproar over British alt-rock band Coldplay’s announced concert here in November. To be clear, this band is easily one of the most successful of the 21st century. In the last two decades or so, they’ve sold over 100 million records and taken their place as the sixth-most awarded band in music history. So for them to come to Malaysia for the first time ever is obviously a pretty big deal, at least for popular music lovers.
But it was a vaguely linked incident that followed that really got me fuming, not only because I don’t like seeing marginalized people being bullied and harassed, but also because of the implications for Malaysia as it tries to woo international businesses and foreign investment. On May 13 and 14, a targeted and coordinated effort by the Home Ministry saw 11 Swatch retail stores nationwide being raided, and scores of watches seized and confiscated because they had rainbow designs on them.
Predictably, Nasrudin Hassan, the leader of opposition party PAS, accused the government of wanting to “nurture a culture of hedonism and perversion,” and advised the government to “just cancel this group’s performance in Malaysia.” Why? Well, because the band
According to reports, the raids came after some people linked the rainbow watch collection to Coldplay’s support for the LGBT community. Now, your guess is as good as mine as to how that particular connection was made, but the end result was an action that went
beyond outraging only me. MUDA Deputy President Amira Aisya Abdul Aziz asked Home Minister Datuk Seri Saifuddin Nasution Ismail to explain himself with regard to the raids. Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek, expressing dismay and concern, pointed out that the watches’ message of ‘peace and love’ was not harmful to anyone and said that legal action against the government would be pursued. At least one lawyer in Malaysia openly declared the raids “blatantly unlawful.” Needless to say, the Swatch raids – and the reason behind them – has been picked up by the global press from Reuters to The Guardian to Bloomberg to Al Jazeera, where the news has once again placed Malaysia in a negative light. The fact is, major companies and beloved brands throughout the world almost universally lean towards inclusivity and diversity, some taking a moral, principled stance, many others recognising the well-documented truth that discrimination is bad for business. Will international businesses considering a presence in Malaysia be adversely swayed by the possibility that they might be targeted by the Home Ministry here for advocating equality? Whatever the outcome, the fear and loathing of rainbows has resulted in another black eye for the country, and as June is internationally celebrated as Pride Month, it’s likely the story will be told and retold for a few more weeks at least. This column’s title is actually MercedesBenz’s ‘Pride’ tagline, and they advocate that people “get involved and stand strong with and for the rainbow community.” Given the huge presence of Mercedes-Benz here and how popular their cars are among the political elite, I can only assume they’ll all burn their luxury cars in protest when they find out how vocally, openly supportive Mercedes is of the LGBT community.
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TEG m in g le
Good Times in Bukit Bintang Our recent TEG Mingle Plus was held at The Botanist Lounge & Bar, a stylish bar located in the newly refurbished Parkroyal Collection Hotel right in the heart of Kuala Lumpur. Despite a bout of heavy early evening rain, the turnout was excellent, and everyone had a terrific time. The hotel’s team really did a superb job of hosting the event, and guests were impressed by both the quality and generosity of the food, with many noting how beautiful the venue was, too. For most, it was their first time visiting the Parkroyal since its wide-ranging renovations were completed. The Botanist, located adjacent to the lobby on the hotel’s ground floor, proved to be a comfortable and lovely place to hold a Mingle! The food served at the event was outstanding, and included not only canapés like smoked salmon and other tasty bites, but also a range of delicious buffet options such as chicken and beef satay, fried calamari, crispy spring rolls, and creative nasi lemak burgers. Attendees commented repeatedly on how good and plentiful the food was. To wash everything down, guests enjoyed a free flow of ice-cold Heineken, Tiger, and Guinness beers, as well as a selection of very nice red and white wines. Overall, the event was a huge success, and everyone is already looking forward to the next fun TEG Mingle. The organizers and hotel team should be commended for putting together such a great event in a lovely venue.
Warm thanks to The Botanist Lounge & Bar PARKROYAL Collection Pan Pacific Hotels Group Jalan Sultan Ismail, Bukit Bintang 50250 Kuala Lumpur T: 03.2782 8388
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TEG p en a n g m i n gle
Poolside in Penang The Ascott Gurney in Penang, together with TEG Media, recently hosted an amazing poolside gathering that left guests raving about the event. Held at the Glass Bar on the 7th floor of the hotel, the event drew a great turnout, and attendees had a fantastic time enjoying the beautiful poolside venue and the lively, sociable atmosphere. The Ascott team really outdid themselves with excellent service and plenty of tasty food, including a marvellous range of canapés such as lotus buns stuffed with shredded duck meat, aglio olio with prawns, crusted fish fingers, crispy potato wedges, chicken meatballs, and more! There was also a choice between a free-flow of ice-cold beers or a selection of great red and white wines, with many guests opting to buy a bottle of the latter and choosing from four different wines. In-house bartenders not only served the beers and wines with a smile, they whipped up some special co*cktails, too! Despite a light shower at the beginning of the event, the turnout was very good, and all the guests enjoyed mingling with both old and new friends throughout the evening. The atmosphere was fun-filled and lively, the venue was just top-notch, and guests couldn’t stop talking about how much they enjoyed themselves. We are super grateful to The Ascott Gurney Penang for teaming up with us to host such a wonderful poolside event, and to all the guests who took the time to be a part of it. See you at the next Penang event soon! Warm thanks to: The Ascott Glass Bar, Level 7 18 Gurney Drive 10250 George Town, Penang
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ex p at li v i n g by Jonathan Di Rollo
A Prescription for Better Living In this ongoing series, we meet and get to know some of the expats who are living and working here in Malaysia. In this instalment, we talk to Australian expat Mr Luke Kerslake. Hi there, what basics can you tell our readers about yourself? My name is Luke Kerslake. I’m from Australia and working here as the HR Country Head, GSK Malaysia.
What brought you to Malaysia? I’ve only ever heard great things about this wonderful country and its diverse culture. Coming here will provide myself and my family with new experiences, enable me to further develop my career and enhance my work within the diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) field of human resources, which is something I am passionate about.
Any funny stories of your experiences in Malaysia? Each March, our annual bonuses are shared with employees, which is obviously always a welcome day in the office. I was in the lift on “Bonus Day” and said to a colleague, “Good morning, it’s bonus day!” His response was to begin telling me about his commute to the office, noting how long it takes with and without traffic jam. I was confused, but assumed he wanted me to be aware because I am HR. Later the same morning, I bumped into another colleague in the corridor and said the same thing to her – “Good morning, it’s bonus day!” She also responded by telling me where she lives and how long it takes her to get to the office. I was totally baffled at this point.
What’s it like working in KL? Malaysia is brimming with talented, dedicated, and inspirational people, and I’m surrounded by them every day. I’ve worked at GSK for more than 10 years now, and there are many reasons people tend to stay with the organisation for long periods. First and foremost, it’s always inspiring being with GSK with our ambition to Get Ahead of Disease Together, while helping people to have better health, improve quality of life, and ultimately save more lives.
Later in the day, I was chatting to another colleague, this one also an expat (but not Australian). I mentioned both employees’ odd responses, and he immediately started laughing. He said that with my accent, “It sounds like you’re asking ‘Where do you stay?’, which is a common question people ask others here.” It was a funny reminder that whilst most Malaysians have a good grasp of English, it’s important as an expat to remember that our accents, particularly Australian, can still cause confusion at times!
For employees, the company culture and dedication to people makes each local operation feel similar, but of course with local differences, which makes each one also unique and interesting. I am privileged to have worked alongside so many amazing GSK colleagues across different markets, and am happy to now count Kuala Lumpur among them.
What do you think about Malaysia compared to other places: Singapore, UK, and your home country? I’ve lived and worked in Australia, the UK, and most recently in Singapore. I’ve enjoyed all those experiences. Malaysia is such a diverse and culturally rich country, and KL such a big, cosmopolitan city, that it can generally offer most of you’re after, not
How long in Malaysia? I’ve only been here for about nine months – so, still a newbie.
Luke Kerslake
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forgetting the awesome people you get to interact with on a daily basis. How has your transition been? After experiences living abroad in the UK and Singapore, the transition could not have been any smoother, even compared to returning to Australia. However, whilst I set out to quickly learn as much as I could about Malaysian culture, practices, and diversity, I quickly realised how much I still have to learn and experience here! Malaysia’s an incredibly diverse and complex country, which makes it really interesting. What have been the high points during your time in Malaysia? The realisation that Malaysians are possibly the warmest and most welcoming people that I have experienced. They also have a fantastic sense of humour. I’ve really appreciated visiting different states. It’s incredible how different each state is, and I’ve enjoyed sampling variations of local cuisines. What do you look forward to with regard to living in Malaysia? It’s an awesome place to live. The city caters for whatever you want to do, live music, local sports, hiking, eating out, etc, and if you want a break from KL it is easy and affordable to take a short trip to one the other states, it’s magnificent islands or even elsewhere in Southeast Asia for a real getaway. Ultimately, what makes the country is its people, and they have been one of the, if not the most important experiences that keeps me here in Malaysia. What’s it like living in KL? KL is an awesome city, and my family
Luke's employer, GSK, is one of the world's leading pharmaceutical companies
and I love it here. There is so much to explore and enjoy, and I have only so far experienced the tip of the iceberg. Public transport is fine when accessible; however, taxis or e-hailing services are usually very convenient and affordable, and so it’s never a big issue getting around. Any favourite watering hole? The Attic Bar and Rimbar in Chinatown are my favourites. I don’t visit as much as I’d like to but love the atmosphere, view, and co*cktails in each of these bars. Both are intentionally a little hard to find, but worth it once you do. And what about a favourite restaurant? Too many to choose from! I have tried severalnasi kandarrestaurants and have yet to find a bad one. When it comes to eating out in Malaysia in general, the selection, quality, and affordability is fantastic. What do you miss the most about Australia? For sure my family and friends. What do you wish you had in Malaysia but can’t find? I wish it had four seasons! I do love the warm weather, but sometimes miss the changes in seasons that you experience in some other countries. What do you want more of in Malaysia? The local music scene is fantastic. Many bars have live music, particularly on weekends. Unfortunately, I’ve
noticed that not all but most big international bands tend to overlook Malaysia when planning their world tours. I would love to see more international acts visiting here. Do you mix in with the Australian community in Malaysia? I’ve met a few, but only by chance. As with most MNCs here, the vast majority of employees are Malaysian, so I interact mostly with locals, who are always fun to socialise with. So far, what’s your favourite Malaysian saying and why? “Boleh!” It took me a little while to understand when I should use this, but realised it was almost always a very funny response to the situation. It translates simply to “can” and is typically used as sort of an “okay, can do” response by most Malaysians. Of course, sometimes there can be an element of sarcasm – depending on the context – which is also humorous. What’s something you really only learn about Malaysia after you’ve actually lived here? People are generally warm and welcoming in person, but as soon as they are behind the wheel in KL traffic, it’s every person for themselves! Do you have a favourite place for a holiday in Malaysia? I have not had the opportunity to visit everywhere I intend to yet, but I did enjoy a week in Penang for our annual conference in January. Nice beaches, great food, and I loved George Town. Looking forward to my next visit.
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ex p at li v i n g by Jonathan Di Rollo and Chad Merchant
Living La Vida Malaysia In this ongoing series, we meet and get to know some of the expats who are living and working here in Malaysia. In this instalment, we talk to expats Sylvain and Diana Lecorné.
D
iana Lecorné, a Mexican native, met her French husband Sylvain in Mexico. They have been in Malaysia for 12 years. “Initially we planned to stay for around 2 years but fell in love with this rinconcito asiatico –that’s Spanish for ‘Little Asian corner’,” Diana shared. “We liked it for its easy lifestyle, the weather, the strategic location in Southeast Asian for travelling, and of course the multicultural country by itself, as well as its amazing food and hospitality. In some ways, it reminds us a lot of Mexico!” Currently Diana is the magazine editor and media professional for ALO ALO Latin Woman Association magazine. Sylvain is the General Manager of Digital Factory at CTOS Malaysia. They arrived in Malaysia in 2011 with their first daughter, who was just four months old at that time. Their second daughter was born in Malaysia. “We came here from France (Nice) where we both lived and worked in Monaco. We were lucky that Sylvain’s first company – Experian Monaco - had an office in Kuala Lumpur, so we took the chance to discover this part of the world,” explained Diana, adding, “Our principal motivation was to explore a different and ‘exotic’ place. We are both passionate about travelling and, since we met in Mexico in 2004, we have travelled a lot because we are curious to explore other nations, know the culture, the people, their style of life, their food and history. Between the Americas and Europe, we have visited around 30 countries on different travels, both individually and as a couple, including Cuba, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Morocco, Malta, the US, and some others in Europe, so Asia was one of our targets, too.”
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Diana continued, “As someone who ‘drinks up life,’ I love to involve myself in different cultures around the world, enjoying their cultural manifestations, folklore, music, and cuisine. As my father always said, ‘The best way to know a country and its people is walking around the streets, cities, and villages, talking to the people and tasting their food, because it’s there that you can understand its origins and history.’ For me, America and Asia share some similar cultural habits and common points, and I love to discover
them. Great weather, colourful landscapes, food ingredients, artisanries, and lifestyle in general, as well as easy-going, hospitable people. So my passion to see and experience more around the world gives me satisfaction and the sensation of being alive.” Sylvain’s job plays an important role in keeping them in Malaysia after working at Experian and now in CTOS, he has had many opportunities which he feels would be more difficult to achieve in
Europe. Apart from that, personal projects are much easier to pursue in Malaysia and with a passion for music and guitars he started creating artisanal wooden guitars with nice implements in Malaysia. (You can find some examples in Facebook or Instagram as @guitareslecorne.) For Diana she feels it’s important to spread the Latino culture and support all those arriving to a new country; that’s why she is very active in the Latin Women Association. It is also an excellent chance to make Mexico known for more than tacos, specifically with her piñata creations (Instagram @ pinarte KL) and a folkloric Mexican dance group (@floresdemexicomy). We asked Diana and Sylvain a few questions to get their thoughts on living in Malaysia as expats each hailing from a different country. Do you both like/dislike the same things about Malaysia? Challenges never really diminish when you are abroad and out of your comfort zone – and we love this! For our daughters to experience different cultures gives them the sense of adaptation, tolerance, and respect. One of the things we like here is how people smile and are ready to help. One day we went to Port Dickson trying our new 4x4 car, but we did not expect to get stuck in the middle of the forest. Some people from the village helped us to get our car out of a hole, which took a few hours, and even one of them got dirty trying to pull our car out. They smiled and seemed delighted to help out a silly foreign couple with a small baby. Sometimes, communication is not easy, and you have to ask for everything many times. And at times, we are reminded that some things just aren’t the same here as back home. Our first house in Malaysia was very nice. It had plenty of space and a lovely garden, but it never occurred to us to ask if the house hot water? We soon discovered we could not take a
proper shower with hot water and when we asked the owner if something was wrong, she replied, “Ohhh… do you want hot water in the house?” Since then, we asked every time we have moved of house or apartment (5 times in 12 years) We are sorry that some of the traditional neighbourhoods are disappearing with the new developments. Unfortunately, some forested areas in the city, too, and this is so sad. The urgency to be a supermodern city can erase not only nature, but some Malaysian history. We were also quite shocked about the concept of timeliness here, because you can wait for a long time when a contractor appointment is stated, because the importance of being on time is not the same as in our countries. We love many cultures living together, having all those Chinese, Indian, and Malay celebrations throughout the year is really amazing. We still find ourselves amazed at waking up in the morning and seeing some resourceful monkeys climbing and trying to get into our neighbour’s kitchen – even on the 13th floor! On that point, Malaysia has plenty of exotic animal surprises such as snakes swimming in the pools or exploring the playground, big lizards around the city centre, and of course those cheeky monkeys trying to snatch your meal in some restaurants near the forest – thankfully this doesn’t happen in the city! Do you have any favourite place for a family holiday in Malaysia? Pangkor is one of the first destinations we discovered in Malaysia, but perhaps unexpected for expats, we stay always in the more local part (after 12 years, still we have not visited the luxurious resort on the nearby Pangkor Laut island). Pangkor is a small island where typical life and local food can be discovered. The nice turquoise beaches
and the yummy food you can find every evening in the main street, with delicious seafood, makes it an idyllic place to enjoy. What do you wish you had in Malaysia, but can’t find? We’d like to see more closely held traditions, cultural events, and it would be great to have more museums, exhibitions, and concerts. More inclusion of foreigners in their communities, too. What do you want to see more of in Malaysia? Animal protection, and more environmental awareness and protection. We are more conscious about our planet and avoid tons of plastic and different waste, and we’d like to see more along these lines in Malaysia. Also, more reforestation and forest protection efforts for flora and fauna that are being destroyed and displaced by the never-ending construction here – or perhaps more preservation and less construction to begin with!
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eve nt s BY david bowden
Festival without Borders
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he 26th annual Rainforest World Music Festival (RWMF) will be staged from Friday, June 23 to Sunday, June 25 in the expansive grounds of the Sarawak Cultural Village located within coastal rainforests that fringe the sands along Damai Beach. In a world that’s dominated by contemporary Western music, the
sounds of indigenous and alternate global music are fading into history. The RWMF set out to not only entertain enthusiastic crowds, but to challenge and broaden their appreciation of music and the repertoire of global musical genres that are available.This means that not all artistes are appreciated by all people all the time.Regular attendees admire the festival’s artistic direction and the fact that it’s prepared to take risks with the performers. Forest Rhythms Celebrating its 26th anniversary, all agree that the festival is doing something right, and once again, the rainforests will resound to the infectious beat of some of the finest world music groups. Ticket numbers are capped to ensure a quality event with an emphasis on crowd comfort.People sprawl over the site, with many content to laze around the lake while watching the performances on big screens. The festival also supports the continuation of Sarawak’s ethnic music as each festival has traditionally started with local groups,
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and usually, there’s a sape (lute-like instrument) somewhere on the programme. WORKSHOP JAMMING The roof of the Iban longhouse in the village is often raised as concertgoers twist and twirl to the lively music. Each afternoon, musicians jam freely amongst themselves and with those in the audience.Musicians exchange licks while the audience joins in the dancing, jigging, singing and reeling.Workshops are especially popular with children who get a chance to learn more about some lesser-heard instruments being played, as well as participate in some new activities. With an exciting festival lineup of global musicians, it’s easy to appreciate that there are no geographical boundaries to world music – indeed, it is music without borders. To learn more, visit rwmf.com and sarawaktourism.com.Tickets should be purchased in advance, but can also be purchased at the gate.
an af ternoon with the amb assador BY Jonathan Di Rollo
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From Mexico to Malaysia Minister of Foreign Trade of Malaysia paid a visit to Mexico and met with several important potential investors.
n this ongoing series, we meet and get to know some of the expats who are living and working here in Malaysia. In this instalment, we crossover to our periodic long-running ‘Afternoon with the Ambassador’ series and talk to Ambassador Edmundo Font, Former Ambassador of Mexico to Malaysia. Ambassadors move around regularly. Where were you posted before coming to Malaysia? My last post as an ambassador was in the South American Andes in the beautiful country of Bolivia. The country has a sacred mountain called Illimani which can be compared to the sacred mountain of Kinabalu in Sabah. How long have you been in Malaysia? Two years. I arrived during the lockdown because of the pandemic, and we have worked intensely since the country was open in April last year. What were your perceptions of Malaysia before you arrived here? I knew that this peninsula was and still is one of the places of settlement of a diverse number of civilizations. Also, I was excited to see the Straits of Malacca, where so much international trade passes by. Is Malaysia different from your perceptions before you arrived? My time in Malaysia has been an extraordinarily fulfilling experience. When I moved here and met the Malaysian people, I learned about the kindness of the people, as well as the beauty of the different landscapes from the mountains to the islands, the jungles, the beaches, and all the different animal species. I would like to highlight the attention that Perak gives to the tigers and how they care about their future, because we tried to get involved doing a projection of the documentary “Malaysia’s Last Tiger,” and inviting different personalities, NGOs and people that we thought could help.
What is the biggest connection between the two countries at the moment? Numerous, but aside from the important political dialogue, we also can name the presence of Malaysian key companies in Mexico.
What is an important aspect of your role here in Malaysia? To continue with the diplomatic efforts between Malaysia and Mexico that lead us to almost 50 years of important economic and commercial ties and exchanges. How much of your work is commercial and how much is cultural or other? The work is equal, I would say, and one emphasizes the other. Do you find any points in common between Mexican and Malaysian cultures? Yes, the love for cultural identities that are reflected in many ways; for example, in the artistic world like music and dance and delicious culinary manifestations. What have been the high points of your time so far in Malaysia professionally and personally? Soon I will celebrate 50 years of my diplomatic career, and I will finish it in this beautiful country, with the hope to have made meaningful contributions to our important ties. Are trade relations between Mexico and Malaysia good? Yes, very good. One example is that Malaysia is our first trading partner in Southeast Asia. About 40 important companies have already been established in Mexico, led by Petronas. Last year, on the first visit to Latin America after the pandemic, the Vice
What’s something you hope to achieve during your time in Malaysia? The exploration of investment opportunities and approach with potentially attractive areas like Perak and Sabah among others. Have you had any particularly memorable experiences in Malaysia so far? One was not just fun, but symbolic. I was invited by the great and wellknown designer Datuk Jimmy Choo to celebrate the Chinese New Year and his birthday, where there was an exceptional catwalk of great beauty, elegance, and distinction. What advice would you give to new expatriates arriving in Malaysia? The consular services branch of the Embassy of Mexico provides all the necessary support to Mexicans who come to Malaysia, whether as tourists, workers, or students. They are recommended to follow all the indications that the local authorities require of foreigners and also our cultural services are opened to them, such as the art gallery that I opened upon my arrival, where distinguished members of our distinguished Mexican community have exhibited. Where will you go next when you leave Malaysia? After almost a half-century in this career, I will be returning to my country, with the message – and the memories – of having had the privilege of serving Mexico in a country as admirable and enjoyable as Malaysia.
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fo c u s : m a lays ia’s w i ldli fe BY chad merchant
Megadiverse: The Wonder of Malaysia’s Iconic Wildlife Taking its place among a very limited number of countries in the world that together account for most of the planet’s biodiversity, Malaysia boasts an incredible spectrum of flora and fauna. Sadly, however, many of its most iconic species of wildlife are increasingly under threat.
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ny of a handful of countries renowned for rich and diverse ecology, climates, and flora and fauna may make it onto the list of the world’s ‘megadiverse’ countries, an exclusive line-up of just 17 nations which together contain a vast amount of Earth’s biodiversity. In fact, these 17 countries collectively contain more than 70% of all the planet’s species, and many of them have unique (and often endangered) ecosystems, such as tropical rainforests, coral reefs, and alpine meadows. Some of the world’s megadiverse countries are unsurprising, given their immense size, wide range of environments, or outsize number of endemic species – think India, Brazil, China, the United States, and Australia. Others are island nations with pockets of uniquely self-contained ecosystems where diversity flourishes, like Indonesia, Madagascar, and the Philippines. But some of the countries on this very short list might be somewhat less expected, such as South Africa, Peru, and… Malaysia. With its two ‘halves’ comprising the Peninsula and East Malaysia on the island of Borneo, Malaysia boasts a wide range of ecosystems, from towering rainforests to pristine coral reefs. Its tropical climate and varied geography have created an
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Rhinoceros Hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros)
exceptionally biodiverse environment that supports a vast array of plant and animal species, making Malaysia home to thousands of species of flora and fauna, including iconic animals like the orangutan, Malayan tiger, and various sea turtles.
orchids, and rare carnivorous plants like the Nepenthes pitcher plant. With a stunning array of habitats and species, Malaysia is undoubtedly a global biodiversity hotspot, and well deserving of its spot on the short list of Earth’s megadiverse countries.
The country’s rainforests, in particular, are known for their incredible diversity of plant life, which includes towering dipterocarp trees, numerous species of
However, when discussing the wildlife most closely associated with Malaysia, a distressing theme is repeated over and over again: Nearly all of these
Oriental Pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris)
animal species are threatened at a minimum, with some being not just critically endangered, but perched on the cusp of extinction. And every time, the reasons are down to the actions of people, with poaching, deforestation, and habitat loss leading the way. Only a strong effort to protect and conserve Malaysia’s natural heritage – both through education and, more importantly, action – can preserve this rich and unique ecosystem for generations to come. Here are Malaysia’s most iconic animals – on land, in the air, and in the sea. THE HORNBILLS Malaysia is home to several species of hornbills, a group of birds known for their distinctive large, curved bills. One of the most recognizable species is the Rhinoceros Hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros), which is the state bird of Sarawak, as well as Malaysia’s national bird. This species is known for its impressive casque, a protrusion on its bill that resembles a rhinoceros horn, and its loud, raucous calls. Another common species is the Oriental Pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris), which is found throughout much of Southeast Asia and is known for its striking black and white plumage. The Black Hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus) is another species found in Malaysia, which has a mostly black
plumage with white tail feathers and a distinctive red bill. Other species present in Malaysia include the Wreathed Hornbill (Rhyticeros undulatus), which has a colorful casque and is known for its long, swooping flights, and the Helmeted Hornbill (Rhinoplax vigil), which has a unique solid casque that is highly prized in some cultures for use in traditional crafts. Unfortunately, many species of hornbills in Malaysia are threatened by habitat loss and hunting, and conservation efforts are needed to protect these charismatic birds for future generations. THE MALAYAN TAPIR Malaysia is also home to a unique and
fascinating mammal species, the tapir. Rather odd in appearance, tapirs are large, herbivorous mammals that resemble a cross between a pig and an elephant. In Malaysia, the Malayan tapir (Tapirus indicus) is the only species of tapir that can be found – but they are unmistakable! Malayan tapirs have a distinctive black and white coloration, with a white body and black head and legs. They are excellent swimmers and are known to inhabit riverine and swampy areas in the rainforest. Malayan tapirs are also important seed dispersers, as they consume large quantities of fruit and excrete the undigested seeds in their droppings, helping to spread the seeds throughout the forest.
Malayan Tapir (Tapirus indicus)
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Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas)
Like many other wildlife species in Malaysia, Malayan tapirs are threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation due to deforestation and land conversion. Conservation efforts, such as the establishment of protected areas and habitat restoration projects, are necessary to ensure the survival of this unique and important species. MALAYSIA’S SEA TURTLES In the rich, tropical seas offshore, Malaysia is home to several species of
sea turtles that can be found in its coastal waters and on its beaches. These endearing creatures are known for their long lifespans, impressive navigational abilities, and the critical role they play in maintaining healthy marine ecosystems. One of the most common species found in Malaysian waters is the beautiful Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas), which is so named for the greenish colour of its fat and cartilage. These turtles are herbivorous and can be found grazing on seagrass beds and algae. Another species that
Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata)
Leatherback Turtle (Dermochelys coriacea)
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can be found in Malaysia is the Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata), which has a distinctive beak-like mouth and is known for its beautifully patterned carapace. Hawksbill Turtles are omnivorous and feed on a variety of marine invertebrates. The uniquely attractive shell of the species has made it a target for poaching, most notably in Southeast Asia, a troubling practice which sees the shells made into jewellery, ornaments, and other souvenirs. This appalling human legacy
has led to the Hawksbill turtle becoming the most threatened of all the sea turtle species in this part of the world. Other species of sea turtles found in Malaysian waters include the Olive Ridley Turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea), which is the smallest of the sea turtles found here and is named for its olive-coloured carapace and British biologist Sir L. Ridley, who was the first to describe the species in 1865. The Leatherback Turtle (Dermochelys coriacea), which is conversely the largest of the sea turtles, can grow up to over two metres in length. The Leatherback Turtle is named for its leathery shell and is known for its ability to dive to incredible depths in
search of food. Unfortunately, all species of sea turtles in Malaysia are threatened by habitat loss, pollution, and fishing activities, including the harvesting of their eggs and meat. Conservation efforts, such as the establishment of protected nesting sites and the implementation of fishing regulations, are necessary to ensure the survival of these magnificent animals.
arboreal mammals in the world, and they are known for their incredible strength and dexterity in navigating the forest canopy. Both Bornean and Sumatran orangutans can be found in Malaysia, with the Bornean subspecies being further divided into three distinct populations: the Northwest Bornean orangutan, the Central Bornean orangutan, and the Northeast Bornean orangutan.
THE ORANGUTAN Back on land, orangutans (Pongo pygmaeus) are one of the most iconic and beloved species of primates found in Malaysia, and they are particularly associated with the rainforests of Sarawak and Sabah. These intelligent, red-haired apes are the largest
Unfortunately, all populations of orangutans in Malaysia are considered to be endangered due to habitat loss and hunting. Deforestation and land conversion for palm oil plantations are the primary drivers of habitat loss, while hunting and poaching are also significant threats. Conservation
Juvenile Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata)
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fo c u s : m a lays ia’s w i ldli fe
Malayan Tiger (Panthera tigris jacksoni)
efforts, such as the establishment of protected areas and habitat restoration projects, are necessary to ensure the survival of orangutans in Malaysia. The state of Sarawak has several protected areas that are important for orangutan conservation, including the Batang Ai National Park and the Lanjak-Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary. Sabah is home to several important protected areas as well, including the Danum Valley Conservation Area and the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary. In addition, several NGOs and
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conservation organizations are working to protect orangutans and their habitats in Malaysia, such as the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation and the Sabah Wildlife Department. Despite these efforts, continued conservation action is needed to prevent the loss of this remarkable species from Malaysia’s rainforests. THE MALAYAN TIGER Last but not least is Malaysia’s national animal. The Malayan tiger (Panthera tigris jacksoni), also known as the Indochinese tiger, is a critically
endangered subspecies of tiger that is found only in the Malay Peninsula and parts of southern Thailand. These majestic big cats, apex predators in the ecosystems they inhabit, are easily recognized by their striking orange and black stripes and can weigh up to 260 kilograms. Alarmingly, the Malayan tiger population has declined rapidly in recent years due to habitat loss and fragmentation, poaching for their skins and body parts, and human-tiger conflict. It is estimated that there are
only around 150-200 Malayan tigers left in the wild. Conservation efforts, such as the establishment of protected areas and habitat restoration projects, are necessary to ensure the survival of this magnificent species. Additionally, increased efforts to combat illegal wildlife trade and reduce human-tiger conflict are also vital in saving the Malayan tiger from extinction. The survival of this iconic species is not only important for its own sake, but also for the health of the entire ecosystem it inhabits. The wildlife of Malaysia is incredibly diverse and unique, featuring many iconic species that are integral to the country’s cultural and ecological
identity. From the majestic orangutan to the beautiful hornbill, the gentle sea turtle to the powerful Malayan tiger, these animals are truly treasures of Malaysia. However, as with many wildlife populations around the world, human activities such as deforestation, hunting, and climate change threaten their survival. Consequently, education and conservation efforts are crucial to ensure that future generations can continue to appreciate and benefit from the inestimable beauty and ecological value of these remarkable creatures. By taking action now, we can help to protect and preserve Malaysian wildlife and secure a better future – for these wondrous animals and for ourselves.
Orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus)
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fo c u s : m a lays i a’s w i ldli fe by ExpatGo Staff
The mighty sea cuc
umber!
Cool as a Cucumber While it certainly doesn’t get the media spotlight afforded to Malaysian species like tigers and orangutans, the humble sea cucumber still plays a remarkable role in the country’s marine ecosystem – and even has an impact on land-dwelling humans, too!
H
ornbills and turtles and monkeys, oh my! Move over, all you celebrated icons of Malaysia’s wildlife scene! Sea cucumbers, the slimy superheroes of the ocean, might not have the paparazzi chasing after them, but don’t let that fool you. With their bizarre appearance and impressive abilities, sea cucumbers are among the true rockstars of the underwater realm. Get ready to be wowed by their peculiar lifestyles, mind-boggling regeneration skills, and surprising importance to marine ecosystems. Brace yourself, because we’re about to dive in with the team at one Langkawi
resort to uncover the secrets of these unassuming yet captivating creatures. Sea cucumbers, scientifically known as echinoderms, are fascinating marine animals found in oceans around the world, including those surrounding Malaysia (locally known as gamat). Despite their cucumber-like shape and seemingly uneventful lives, they play crucial roles in maintaining the health and balance of marine ecosystems. These bottom-dwelling creatures are nature’s clean-up crew, tirelessly scavenging the ocean floor and consuming organic matter like decaying plants and animals. This
essential task helps prevent the build-up of debris and promotes nutrient recycling within the ecosystem. Additionally, sea cucumbers possess a remarkable (and, let’s face it, a bit horrifying) defence mechanism – the ability to expel their internal organs as a means of distracting and deterring predators. Even more astonishing, they can regenerate any lost organs within a matter of weeks. From their ecological contributions to their incredible regenerative powers, sea cucumbers continue to astonish scientists and remind us of the wondrous diversity found beneath the waves. CELEBRATING THE CUCUMBER So maybe it’s about time that resorts along the oceanfront pay tribute to this particular resident, and at the RitzCarlton, Langkawi, that’s exactly what they’re doing – not just shining the metaphorical spotlight on the species, but educating and delighting their guests in the process. The ‘cucumber initiative’ offers the resort’s guests a chance to engage in more meaningful travel experiences during their visit to Langkawi. It’s all part of the Good Travel with Marriott
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Bonvoy programme, which focuses on three key areas: Environmental Protection, Community Engagement, and Marine Conservation. Langkawi’s locals have long relied on sea cucumbers for traditional medicinal purposes. However, excessive farming practices have taken a toll on the marine ecosystem, leading to coral bleaching. To combat this issue, guests are invited to participate in the resort’s Sea Cucumber Reproduction Project, a hands-on experience led by the resort’s in-house Marine Biologist, Mr Fadzli Luqman. We recently met him and enjoyed a hands-on introduction to Langkawi’s sea cucumbers! But the idea behind this programme isn’t just giving guests something fun and
Introducing a guest to Langkawi’s sea cucumbers
educational to do, there’s a deeper aim, as well. One of the initiative’s goals is to support the sustainability of sea cucumbers and increase their population in the Andaman Sea using an asexual technique, which Fadzli and his team pursue right at the resort itself, where they’ve fashioned a sea
cucumber nursery! (It was here we had our first-ever experience handling these animals, and with apologies to The Lion King’s Timon, it was a ‘slimy yet satisfying’ affair!) Located at the resort’s private beach entrance, the sea cucumber nursery serves as the hub for the whole cucumber-focused initiative, available
Fadzli at the resort’s Sea Cucumber Nursery
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Upstairs at the delightful Eco-Discovery Centre
exclusively for guests of the resort. Through the programme, guests gain valuable insights into the asexual technique and even have the opportunity to release mature sea cucumbers during a kayak session in the open sea. Additionally, through the resort’s amazing Eco-Discovery centre, younger guests will learn about the animal’s significance and its impact on the marine ecosystem. OCEAN FLOOR GARDENERS Sea cucumbers, despite their slow and steady movements, actually play crucial ecological roles in the ocean. One of their main contributions lies in their feeding habits. As detritivores, sea cucumbers consume decaying matter and organic debris on the ocean floor. By doing so, they help to break down and recycle nutrients, promoting the overall health of the ecosystem. Their feeding activity also plays a significant role in maintaining sediment stability, preventing the accumulation of organic material and promoting water circulation.
Education and fun at the Eco-Discovery Centre
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Furthermore, sea cucumbers are often referred to as the ‘gardeners of the sea’ due to their role in enhancing biodiversity. They engage in something called bioturbation, which involves the reworking of sediments as they
methodically burrow and sift through the substrate. This process creates microhabitats and oxygenates the sediments, which in turn encourages the settlement and growth of other organisms such as small invertebrates and microbes. In this way, sea cucumbers contribute to the overall richness and diversity of the marine ecosystem at the very base of the food chain. Sea cucumbers also play a role in nutrient recycling. After consuming organic matter, they excrete nutrientrich waste which serves as a valuable fertilizer for seafloor plants and algae. This helps to maintain a healthy balance within the ecosystem and supports the growth of other marine organisms.
But these tubular critters also play a part on land! In addition to their marine-based ecological functions, sea cucumbers have economic importance, too. Here in Malaysia, they are harvested for various purposes, including food, traditional medicine, and the production of pharmaceuticals. Sustainable harvesting practices and conservation efforts are crucial to ensure the long-term viability of sea cucumber populations and to maintain their positive impact on the marine ecosystem. Ellen Franke, General Manager at The Ritz-Carlton, Langkawi, explained the resort’s embrace of the growing trend of travellers being more environmentally conscious, noting that the Sea Cucumber Reproduction
Project aligns perfectly with this ethos. “This initiative not only educates and delights our guests; it enables them to give back to the environment while enjoying their stay!” It’s great to see more and more resorts in Malaysia striving to add eco-centred components like this to their line-up of activities and pursuits for their guests. Spa treatments, water sports, and poolside lounging are all awesome, but learning more about the natural setting that gives a resort much of its appeal is a good way to add a meaningful dimension to any beachfront resort vacation! And when guests can get involved in such a hands-on way, that makes it even better. So, with all that in mind, we say: All hail Langkawi’s mighty sea cucumber!
Resident Marine Biologist Fadzli and a guest releasing sea cucumbers
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ex pat excu rs i on s : malaysia
Fraser’s Hill: A Birdwatcher’s Paradise
Green Magpie
In search of some of Malaysia’s winged wildlife, travel writer David Bowden heads for the hills to get a sneak preview of the Fraser’s Hill International Bird Race to be staged in mid-June high up in the Titiwangsa Range.
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hile I enjoy watching birds, I wouldn’t claim to be an avid admirer, so when told of the Fraser’s Hill International Bird Race (FHIBR), I did not fully comprehend the concept. I had visions of birds testing their skills against each other, but a bird race is, in fact, something completely different. Apparently, birdwatching colleagues (affectionately known as twitchers), travel from around the region to identify as many bird species as they can within a certain time frame (teams of three over 24 hours). Yes, these types of events are taken very seriously by ornithologists, but you certainly don’t have to be a card-carrying twitcher with a 1,000 mm telephoto lens to take part, as there are various categories of participation from rank amateurs to ‘double centurion’ spotters.
Tinggi, Cameron Highlands, Penang Hill, and Fraser’s Hill, the latter being the closest to Kuala Lumpur. I’ve travelled to Fraser’s Hill many times, ascending the circuitous road from Kuala Kubu Bahru to the Gap and then up a narrow, one-way road with as many twists and turns as an Agatha Christie novel to the hilltop village situated along the Selangor and Pahang state borders. If there were ever a Malaysian town locked in a time warp, it is Fraser’s Hill, as apart from the more recent models of cars parked here, most other things look much the same as my last visit – and the one before that. Far from being a negative, though, I find this
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The small, English-like village gets a few visitors at the weekend, but during the week, very little happens. It’s not a ghost town, and there are many things to do, but most visitors appear to be content to pose for photos in front of the famous ivy-draped clocktower, buy a fridge magnet, and perhaps seek out a meal before retracing their steps down the hill. There is an office of Tourism Pahang in the village centre, and it’s worth asking for a map and heading off to embark on the myriad adventures that expand across the seven rolling hills of the Titiwangsa Range where Fraser’s Hill is perched. HISTORIC HIDEAWAY In the late 19th century, tin was discovered here and mined by various adventurous souls who were prepared to endure isolation, high rainfall, and the wilds of what was then Malaya. The most celebrated entrepreneurial miner was the person after whom Fraser’s Hill is named.
While the FHIBR is an excellent time for birders to gather, visiting at any time will appeal to those who enjoy a memorable montane encounter, the opportunity to escape the madding crowds and to return to more genteel times. Fraser’s Hill is periodically in the limelight for the wrong reasons, but it’s my suggestion to travel there with an open mind and be pleasantly surprised. HISTORIC HILL STATIONS Malaysia has a handful of hilltop resorts, ranging from the in-your-face Resorts World Genting development to the almost as expansive Bukit
reassuring and enjoy returning here to experience what the town was designed for: a place to rest, relax, and recuperate.
Clocktower, Fraser’s Hill
For decades, it was assumed that Lewis Fraser was an eccentric Scotsman who also operated an illegal gambling and opium den in addition to sluicing tin from deep within the montane forests. While settling into a well-used lounge at Ye Olde Smokehouse, and the book I took to read during my stay, I
Birdwatchers angling for the best photo at Stephen’s Place
discovered just how wrong some of the hill’s history really is. Singapore-based writer Richard Hale is an expert on Fraser’s life, and in his book, Fraser’s Hill and Lewis J. Fraser of Singapore (2018, Entrepot Publishing), he dispels many myths about Fraser. While indeed of Scottish parentage, Fraser was actually born in Singapore, but left in disgrace after serving time in prison. He relocated to Tras in Pahang in the late 19th century and mined tin ore, then transported it to market via a bridle trail to the village now known as Kuala Kubu Bharu. After World War I, a report was submitted to the British authorities in Malaya to develop Fraser’s Hill. Bungalows for senior public servants were erected and later, private companies
Fireplace bar lounge, Ye Olde Smokehouse
were granted the right to build mock Tudor-style bungalows.
in Malaya and the cooler mountains especially appealed to the colonialists.
Bear in mind that the journey from the Klang Valley in the mid-1920s would have been quite an adventure. Motor vehicles weren’t common, and the train only operated to Kuala Kubu, and from there, transport had to be arranged. Holidays were mostly spent
These days, just as in days past, one of the joys of staying at Ye Olde Smokehouse is to partake in English cream tea service comprising freshly baked scones, strawberry jam, and cream, along with a pot of tea. This historic hotel opened in 1924 as a
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Tree House, MCM Outdoor Centre
convalescent home for soldiers who had just returned from World War I to rest and relax in the cool mountain air. It was then called the Red Cross House, but became an inn in 1937.
popular with adventurous walkers and birdwatchers. They are not clearly defined, and not all have reopened post-Covid, so it is best to ask the locals for advice.
HILLTOP ADVENTURES Bungalows in Fraser’s Hill were widely dispersed, and walking trails between them and to the village were the main way in which people moved around. Today, eight trails remain and are
While walking, I dropped by MCM Bungalow to meet Stephen Hogg who contributed to the definitive and authoritative birdwatching guide, A Naturalist’s Guide to the Birds of Fraser’s Hill (2019, John Beaufoy Publishing).
Malayan Partridge
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White-Thighed Langur
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This is the essential guide to the area’s avifauna, which includes 275 bird species (or 42% of all those found in the Peninsula) and 88% of all known highland species. Fraser’s Hill has been recognised by BirdLife International as an Important Bird Area (IBA). Stephen also alerted me to trapdoor spiders, which can be seen in certain parts. Stephen told me that the spiders are so unique that Sir David Attenborough came here several years ago just to film them. MCM Bungalow is a bed and breakfast property of eight individually themed guestrooms with en suite bathrooms. The most unique accommodation is the Tree House (Sky Cabin) perched high up in a tree with uninterrupted views over the forest canopy. MCM especially caters to families and offers an extensive choice of activities. The selection of outdoor activities includes 3D archery, fishing, rock climbing, mini golf, mountain biking, and trail walking. Night walks and bird safaris are offered to those who want to learn more about the mountain forests. On wet days and evenings, there is an extensive library covering many topics, table tennis, board games, and snooker. Homestyle meals featuring local dishes are served in the restaurant, and there is a rooftop garden for relaxation.
Serious birdwatchers can choose to stay at the adjoining Stephen’s Place, where animal spotting and photography can be done in the comfort of the lounge room through wide bay windows. THE PEAK OF DINING While not a foodie destination, there are a few places to eat in Fraser’s Hill, including a food court beside a garden with a playground. Three generations of the Yap family have operated the Hill View Restaurant, which is now located in the food court. The restaurant serves traditional Hainanese dishes that were once an essential part of staying in a hilltop bungalow. Ye Olde Smokehouse offers a nostalgic English experience and is the only place on the hill to enjoy an alcoholic beverage. It has a fireplace that the staff may fire up on the coolest of nights. They also serve substantial English breakfasts for in-house guests and afternoon tea of scones, jam, and cream. The Glasshouse is a new/old outlet that incorporates a building from a former petrol station (oh, there is no place to refuel on the hilltop, so travel with a full tank). Featuring an A-frame glass conservatory, The Glasshouse is Fraser’s Hill contribution to the café society where brewed coffee and premium teas are served to accompany delicious cakes with the burnt cheesecake a hot item. Patrons can admire various cactus plants on display and take home a memento of their visit to the hill. The Glasshouse is not open every day, so it is best to check before visiting.
Bunge bungalow
It’s worth pointing out that Fraser’s Hill isn’t for everyone. As tourism numbers decline, expenditure on maintenance dwindles in lockstep. As expenditure decreases, fewer people visit – and perhaps even fewer still return. You get my drift. Fraser’s Hill really is a destination that needs to reinvent itself in a world that sees people travelling to Bali, Hong Kong, and phu*ket for a weekend escape rather than to nearby colonial-inspired mountain destinations. That said, Fraser’s Hill will especially appeal to those who like to relax and make their own fun in a cool location. Some exciting and adventurous activities are offered at MCM Outdoor Centre for those who need to be more active.
Travel File Getting There Fraser’s Hill is 100 km due north of Kuala Lumpur, and the only access is via a circuitous road that winds its way up from the Selangor lowlands. The only public transportation is via taxi from Kuala Kubu Bahru. Where to Stay MCM Outdoor Centre (mcmoutdoorcenter.com) and Ye Olde Smokehouse (thesmokehouse.my). Contacts The Fraser’s Hill International Bird Race is organised by Pahang Tourism (T: +60 9 568-1623, E: [emailprotected], W: pahangtourism.org.my).
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ex pat excu rs i on s : langkawi
Luxury in Langkawi As Malaysia’s best-known holiday island, Langkawi offers visitors a choice of upscale resorts, but how do these properties – and the island as a whole – compete with other popular islands in the region? Editor Chad Merchant has a comprehensive round-up of Langkawi’s top accommodation options.
Hidden in the rainforest, The Datai is one of Langkawi’s best escapes
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Saujana Private Villas
A
s the world has reopened to travel and tourism, finding its footing after a long pandemic-mandated slumber, Langkawi is hoping to reclaim its rising status among travellers in Asia. The recently concluded Langkawi International Maritime and Aerospace Exhibition (LIMA) was a rousing success, having staged its 16th edition overall, and its first since 2019. With China now permitting outbound travel, the island has seen a notable uptick in visitors from that country, with its renowned luxury hotels a big beneficiary. Though duty-free Langkawi can represent reasonable value for international tourists, accommodation is expensive here by Malaysian standards, and the island has attracted some local criticism lately for its high overall room rates. Stories abound of Malaysian travellers opting instead for nearby Thai destinations like phu*ket, Krabi, Pattaya, Koh Samui, Koh Tao, and Koh Lipe. Two of these destinations in particular – phu*ket and Koh Samui – have not only well-developed tourism infrastructure that’s evolved over decades, but some world-class hotels and resorts, too. Plus, there’s that ever-alluring Thai food to draw people in, as well.
But that said, Langkawi boasts a range of amazing seaside resorts, too. Here, we’ll take a look at some of those properties, their beaches, their facilities, and their value. LANGKAWI’S NORTH COAST The Datai, named among The Leading Hotels of the World, is unquestionably one of the island’s most well-known resorts, but somewhat ironically, you can’t even really see it from the ocean. That’s on purpose, though, as the resort was conceived and built to be integrated with nature, and to say that it blends in to the rainforest in which it sets isn’t an understatement at all! Sited on scenic Datai Bay, this iconic resort has a rich history dating back to its opening in 1993. Set against the backdrop of the ancient rainforest and fronted by the azure waters of the bay from which it takes its name, The Datai offers an unparalleled experience for those seeking a serene, natural retreat. Indeed, one of the resort’s most appealing features is its aforementioned seamless integration with nature. Designed to blend harmoniously with the surrounding environment, The Datai showcases traditional Malay architecture and utilizes sustainable practices to preserve the natural beauty of its surroundings. The resort’s nicely appointed rooms, suites, and villas –
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Four Seasons Langkawi
refurbished recently following a lengthy closure to carry out the upgrades – offer lovely views of the rainforest or the ocean, allowing guests to immerse themselves in the enchanting landscapes. The Datai is a somewhat exclusive property, though, with rooms numbering only a few dozen, not a few hundred, so the rates can oftentimes start at around RM3,000 per night; the beach villas are considerably more. However, the resort typically offers a package rate for residents of Malaysia that makes those swanky rooms and villas more affordable. The Andaman was the other upmarket choice on Datai Bay, but a massive fire in January 2021 largely destroyed the resort. It has remained closed for long-term rebuilding since then, and it’s unclear when the property will reopen. (Reports in late 2021 suggested it would reopen in the second half of this year, but that does not seem likely.) However, there is another luxury option on this beautiful bay. Built alongside and at the same time as The Datai – actually for the thenowners and their friends – a few private villas sit nearby. These villas boast an elegant Malaysian coastal architectural
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Tanjung Rhu Resort’s beautiful pool
aesthetic similar to The Datai’s, but now operate independently from the resort. Called Saujana Private Villas, this standalone property nestled deep in the ancient rainforest at the end of a private road is ideal for tranquil seclusion and complete relaxation. Within the sanctuary of the four-villa compound itself, there is a private pool, while a dedicated dining area sets the stage for memorable meals. There’s also a lovely pavilion-style villa with a games room and entertainment centre. Additionally, the indulgent spa and delectable dining options at The Datai
are a mere beach stroll away, offering a seamless fusion of seclusion and world-class amenities, and guests of Saujana Private Villas are invited to avail themselves. The Saujana Private Villas, though lesser-known than the more famous big names on the island, offer an unparalleled Langkawi rainforest retreat that’s ideal for travellers craving a little solitude and serenity. Each of the four villas can be booked individually, but we recommend getting some friends or family together and taking over the whole resort at a price that will come as a pleasant surprise.
Sunset at Tanjung Rhu
Further east along the island’s northern shores, you’ll find the sprawling Four Seasons Langkawi. Located along the pristine Tanjung Rhu beach, this resort provides an upscale and serene retreat for guests seeking a sun and sandcentred getaway. The resort offers 91 spacious rooms, including pavilions and villas, with a design incorporating traditional Malay influences with a touch of Moroccan aesthetics. These accommodations provide views of either the Andaman Sea (looking north to the nearby islands of Thailand) or the property’s lush gardens. The resort provides both indoor and outdoor dining options, allowing guests to enjoy their meals in air-conditioned comfort or with a beach view and an ocean breeze. Emphasizing the island’s rich cultural heritage and natural attractions, the Four Seasons Langkawi offers guided nature walks, providing insights into the flora and fauna of the area, while visits to the UNESCO Geopark unveil Langkawi’s geological wonders, mangroves, and caves. The resort’s Geo Spa offers a range of wellness treatments, utilizing natural ingredients sourced from the area. Rooms here typically start around RM2,500 per night, but discounts and package deals are often available with advance booking.
A bit further along this lovely beach, considered by some to be the island’s best overall, you’ll find the property named after the stretch of land on which it sits, Tanjung Rhu Resort (tanjung means ‘cape’ in Malay.) Opened some three decades ago, this was one of Langkawi’s first luxury resorts. About half of the property’s rooms were closed off years ago and have remained that way. However, new ownership has seen some great things happening here, and we’re eager to see what the coming years will bring for this lovely, classic resort. The location is ideal, the beach is beautiful, and the adults-only pool (there is also a family pool) is absolutely huge, affording guests not only a stunning pool in which to swim, but giving them a gorgeous oceanfront view at the same time! Tanjung Rhu Resort boasts an array of facilities, including a rejuvenating spa, the two pools mentioned, and a variety of dining options that showcase delectable local and international cuisines, including one outlet with a real wood-fired oven. There’s even a poolside bar at the adult pool! Whether basking in the sun on the pristine beach, exploring the surrounding mangrove forests, or simply indulging in the resort’s various offerings, Tanjung Rhu Resort offers good value for its location and amenities. The rooms, while a bit
dated, are spacious and clean, and guests have plenty of compliments for the resort! Rooms here begin at about RM800 per night, and Malaysians can take advantage of an offer giving them a RM50 credit per night, which can be used for F&B or the spa. Other offers and package deals are regularly available, as well. THE ISLAND’S SOUTHWEST On a map, Langkawi International Airport serves as a general divider between the island’s south and southwest tourist areas. To the ‘left’ of the airport is the southwest region, which is home to a handful of resorts. Arguably the best-known on the international stage is the Ritz-Carlton, Langkawi. This property is sprinkled cleverly amid the rainforest in such a pleasing and minimally intrusive way, parts of it almost disappear beneath the canopy. Moreover, the resort is so large, you may think there must be hundreds of rooms, but in reality, there are barely even 70 total rooms, suites, and villas here! Even when the resort is running close to full occupancy, you’ll never feel crowded – in fact, you may find yourself wondering where all the other guests are! The dining options at the Ritz-Carlton are among the resort’s highlights. Breakfasts are something special at
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Langkawi Kitchen, which boasts a warm and opulent ambiance amid the surrounding forest. The Beach Grill (a spectacular venue featuring seafood and grilled meats) and Horizon (a casual venue affording gorgeous panoramic views) both offer seaside dining with excellent cuisine, friendly service, and that inimitable beach resort style. Finally, Hai Yan features some of the island’s finest Chinese cuisine, showcasing primarily Cantonese dishes with sophistication and finesse. Any of these venues come highly recommended.
sunset cruises, guided nature walks, and cultural immersions to provide guests with a deeper connection to the island and its heritage.
The resort’s Instagram-worthy spa, meanwhile, offers Langkawi’s only hammam experience – and does so in a truly five-star setting. The resort also offers curated experiences such as
There are only small patches of sandy beaches found here, as most of the coast along this part of Langkawi is rocky. The pools at the Ritz-Carlton, however, are incredible! Rooms here
The Danna Langkawi
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In addition to its luxurious offerings, The Ritz-Carlton, Langkawi is committed to environmental sustainability and community engagement. The resort actively participates in conservation efforts and supports local initiatives, reflecting its dedication to preserving the natural beauty and cultural heritage of Langkawi.
Beautiful seaside views abound in Langkawi
typically start around RM1,700 per night and go up sharply from there for the sprawling suites and villas. Not much further along the coastline, you’ll come to Telaga Harbour and the property that has repeatedly over the years been named the best hotel in Malaysia. Recently added to the Small Luxury Hotels of the World pantheon, The Danna is considerably smaller than most top resorts on the island, but makes up for it with sheer class, exuding a distinctive charm with its architectural grandeur and a unique ‘feel’ that recalls a bygone era of elegance. Inspired by the colonial era, the resort’s architecture showcases a seamless blend of classical design elements and luxurious modern touches – and even weaves in a few touches of Peranakan finery here and there, too. The majestic façade, adorned with ornate ironwork and expansive verandas, evokes a sense of timeless grandeur. The interiors boast lavish furnishings and intricate woodwork, while a range of restaurants and bars ensure you’ll never have to
venture far for a good meal. The main pool is huge, with panoramic views of the shore and the harbour beyond, while each of the contemporary beachfront villas – arguably among the best offered anywhere in Malaysia at these price points – has a large private pool of its own. Rooms at The Danna start at around RM1,500 per night, with the stunning beach villas coming in at a bit over RM5,000 per night. The hotel usually has a range of attractive offers and package deals. Continuing on from the southwest to the west, the main property along Burau Bay now is Berjaya Langkawi Resort. Particularly well-suited to families, the sprawling resort features a range of accommodation options, from cosy chalets nestled amid the trees to luxurious overwater chalets. Guests can enjoy an array of facilities, including swimming pools, restaurants (including a beloved and acclaimed overwater Thai restaurant), a spa, and a variety of outdoor activities. Berjaya’s
resort is located near to Langkawi’s famed cable car and SkyBridge attractions. Rainforest chalets – a bit dated, but nice – start at about RM675 per night, rising to roughly RM2,000 for the newer premier overwater chalets. Burau Bay will also soon be home to a new resort under the Hilton brand, with a lavish 251-room resort scheduled to open in 2024. SOUTHERN SHORES Langkawi’s south is home to the island’s most popular, if not its best, beaches, Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah. Though these stretches of golden sands have not historically been home to any high-end resorts, there are nevertheless a few worth mentioning. Under relatively new ownership, the Pelangi Beach Resort & Spa occupies an enviable spot at the northernmost end of Cenang. Guests can choose from a range of accommodation options, including rooms, suites, and villas, each designed with contemporary aesthetics and
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Berjaya Langkawi Resort
modern amenities. The resort boasts a variety of facilities, including multiple swimming pools, restaurants serving diverse cuisines, a spa for relaxation, and a host of recreational activities. Rooms here start at about RM850, and a range of package deals are typically offered. Not far down the beach is Casa del Mar, a charming boutique hotel. This intimate retreat, which has been named among Malaysia’s ‘most romantic’ hotels, offers a serene and elegant atmosphere, perfect for those seeking a relaxing escape. The resort’s architecture showcases a fusion of Mediterranean and traditional Malaysian influences, creating a beguiling ambiance, and the indulgent Satkara Spa is on the premises, too. Even when walking along the beach, you can look at this little place – just 34 rooms! – and get the sense that it’s something special. Rooms start at close to RM1,000 per night, and a handful of packages are available through the end of the year. A handful of four-star hotels both small and large are located further down the beach and on into adjacent Pantai Tengah. Compared to Cenang, Tengah is somewhat more refined and upmarket, and has a less chaotic vibe
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The Datai Beach Villa interior
overall. Some great standalone restaurants are found here, too, including Argan Tree, Rockafeller’s, and Haroo Korean. A half hour’s drive away from Cenang, on the eastern side of Langkawi’s southern coast, lie a pair of five-star sister properties under the Marriott International group that are within easy eyesight of each other. The Westin Langkawi Resort & Spa is the older of the two, having opened in November 1995, and the beautiful property still has that timelessly appealing island resort vibe. The resort has a range of spacious and elegantly appointed rooms and suites, and from the private balconies or terraces, guests can enjoy views of the sea, gardens, or the resort’s large beachside pool. The private villas, built later in the resort’s life, offer comfort and elegance, many with direct, easy beach access. The Westin is one of Langkawi’s best resorts when it comes to dining, and features an array of options, including international cuisine, Asian specialties, and beachfront dining experiences. Rooms here start at about RM1,000 per night. Just nearby, The St. Regis Langkawi, which opened in April 2016, is a case
study in extravagance. With its distinctively opulent architecture and design, the resort features spacious and meticulously appointed rooms, suites, and private villas, each offering lovely views and lavish amenities. Guests can indulge in a culinary journey with the resort’s signature dining venues, most notably Kayuputi, a genuinely stunning overwater restaurant and bar. The St. Regis Langkawi also offers a range of leisure facilities, including an infinity pool, a luxurious spa, and access to a beautifully groomed beach. Rooms here start at approximately RM1,900 per night and soar from there. DOES LANGKAWI DELIVER VALUE FOR ITS LUXURY? Though Langkawi doesn’t have the global reputation of islands like Bali or phu*ket, it nevertheless offers a sizeable handful of world-class luxury resorts – with price tags to match. For many upper-tier visitors, though, the appeal of Langkawi might begin and end with the place they’re staying. Once guests leave the pristine, neatly kept confines of their luxury resort and venture out to explore the rest of Langkawi, the value proposition drops significantly. The island’s main town surely won’t
Kayuputi at St. Regis
St. Regis Langkawi
appeal to luxury travellers: It inexplicably has the Malay word for ‘gravy’ as its name (kuah), and to say it’s a woebegone little town with very little to offer the international tourist would be an understatement. Even before the pandemic, Kuah was dilapidated and ill-maintained, and the long absence of visitors and their money only made things worse, with a number of the town’s shops closing and never reopening. There are three or four malls and shopping centres scattered around in Kuah and Cenang, but they absolutely pale in comparison to the glitzy Jungceylon Shopping Mall in phu*ket’s popular Patong district, or Bali’s vibrant open-air Beachwalk Shopping Centre in the heart of Kuta. It’s certainly not all bad, though. Langkawi’s airport underwent a major renovation, expansion, and upgrade in 2018, and it was a fantastic improvement and truly a job welldone. It shows that Langkawi is definitely capable of being positively changed, but too often, the powers that be embark on ill-conceived and often dubious projects to supposedly transform the island, with minimal or non-existent results. Several years ago, for example, there was talk of making Langkawi a big destination for
aesthetic medicine, with the island’s posh resorts providing luxurious stays for patients recuperating from their plastic surgery. Then a big project came along to build a playground for the rich, so they could bring their expensive supercars to the island and drive around on a private track. The massive 138-metre Maha Tower and shoplot complex built on the waterfront in Kuah took nearly a decade to complete, and though the sweeping views from level 33 are as impressive as expected, the attraction has been met so far with mostly a shrug. (Perhaps openly charging tourists literally double the price that Malaysians pay erodes its appeal?) On the whole, not only do these schemes offer very little benefit to Langkawi’s residents, they also tend to miss what’s special about the island. Critics have long maintained that Langkawi’s unique selling point is its incredible UNESCO Geopark and that it’s this natural wonder which should form the basis of future tourism. If the island could rally around genuine ecotourism, sustainably undertaken and wisely marketed, it could be a real winner. To their credit, several of the resorts covered here are leading the way with authentic sustainability drives, conservation and preservation
programmes, and education efforts for both guests and the local community. These are the resorts that deserve attention, and it’s good to see that Langkawi is home to quite a few of them. Perhaps their leadership will inspire local authorities to do more to help Langkawi make a strong name for itself as one of Southeast Asia’s most naturally appealing travel destinations.
TRAVEL FILE The Datai: thedatai.com/offers Saujana Private Villas: saujanahotels.com/saujanaprivate-villas-datai-bay-langkawi Four Seasons: fourseasons.com/ langkawi Tanjung Rhu: tanjungrhu.com.my Ritz-Carlton: ritzcarlton.com/ langkawi The Danna: thedanna.com/ special-offers Berjaya: berjayahotel.com/ langkawi Pelangi: pelangiresort.com/offers The Westin: marriott.com/en-us/ hotels/lgkwi-the-westinlangkawi-resort-and-spa St. Regis: marriott.com/en-us/ hotels/lgkxr-the-st-regis-langkawi
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ex pat excu rs i on s : myanmar Photos by Win San and Saya Htay
Myanmar’s Shin Pyu Novitiation Ceremony Though leisure travel to Myanmar may be a questionable choice these days, the country still holds plenty of cultural wonder despite its ongoing political struggles. Here, Judyth Gregory-Smith recounts her time spent in the country witnessing the important Shin Pyu ceremony.
I
f you have been to Myanmar you may have seen amazing processions, some of which even include elephants. Such processions are for Shin Pyu, which is the ceremony where young Buddhist boys are inducted into the monastery. It is the most important celebration in a Myanmar male’s life, and on one of my trips several years ago, I was fortunate enough to be invited as a guest of honour. I had known the family for many years and thesayadaw (abbot) conducting the ceremony was
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an old friend of the family, so it was a particularly significant occasion. The excitement was palpable as we entered the village of Tan Nawn Kane in Magwe Division where my friend Saya Htay’s nephew, a boy called Chan Htet Win, and nine others were to be inducted into the monastery the next evening. The excitement became ever more febrile as small girls were adorned in shining satin for such a special occasion. Their mothers were similarly attired, though mostly in
milder colours. The venues for the ceremony would be divided between the monastery and the hall. We would visit both several times over the two-day ceremony, each time for a different function. Myanmar folk are adept at erecting huge concert halls and dismantling them even more quickly after an event. For this occasion, the concert hall at Tan Nawn Kane stood just outside Chan Htet Win’s family home. It had a magnificent golden-painted –
and meticulously patterned – cut-out façade. Inside in the centre of the hall, there were sitting mats for everyone. Away to one side was the traditional orchestra. When they were having a break, I ventured forth to see the instruments. I could not study them when they were actually playing, or the decibels would have blown me backwards across the hall! There were six drums standing, lying, or propped up, as well as six others meticulously arranged in a row, each one slightly larger than the next. I thought I had come to the end of the drums, and then, in an alcove, I found 18 others that would doubtlessly emit different sounds. Then there were gongs. Five huge gongs hung from the roof behind the orchestra, 18 lay on a raised wire circle, and another 18 hung about or were lain about near the
entrance. The orchestra started again, and I scurried back to my place. At the appointed hour, Saya Htay, her husband Win San, and everyone else but me set off on foot for the traditional tour of the village, a ritual that would take at least a couple of hours. This was done primarily to share the special day with as many people as possible. As the guest of honour, I was not expected to walk, and Ko Thin Htet Aung was deputed to take me on his motorbike. We would stop several times to allow the procession, which was about two kilometres in length, to pass by, thus allowing us the chance to take lots of photos. Riding side-saddle on a motorbike is not my chosen mode of travel, but as I saw one after another bullock cart jolt and crack down rocky holes in the unmade road, I figured that the motorbike beat that
out that style of transportation any day. I tried to maintain my composure and look confident and graceful, even as I conjured a picture of the guest of honour falling off the pillion flat on her face! It was a long two-kilometre walk for the little ones in the procession, but they valiantly struggled on and made the procession up to the monastery to listen to thesayadaw, then back down to the hall. Five men across the road from the hall, meanwhile, were busily decorating the windscreen and bonnet of Win San’s taxi. In both Nyaung Pin Zauk and this village, he is the only person to own a car, and he had been asked to carry the Buddha image from the monastery down to the hall for the two nights of the celebration. At last the decorating
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was finished, and I was asked to get into the car. We drove to the monastery and found dozens of women, all holding bunches or vases of flowers. When the Sayadaw had said a few words, the women lined both sides of the road on which the Buddha was conveyed. In front of our vehicle, dozens of men headed the procession as guards. They were carrying the flags of the monastery, and I learned that all monasteries have the same colours and design. They are coloured blue for peace, red for strength, yellow for gentleness, pink for good luck, and brown. (Unfortunately, Win San could not remember what the brown represented!) We passed through the lined-up ladies, and as we drove along, I was intrigued to see that there were many children standing and looking out of their gate. Why were they not in the procession, I asked Win San, and he explained that only one child from each family was invited; otherwise,
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there would be many hundreds, rather than just about a hundred. We arrived at the hall, and the Buddha was lifted reverently down from the bonnet of the car and taken inside. After the two nights of the ceremony, he would be driven back to the monastery. The significance of collecting the Buddha, I was told, was
that he would want to be included in this important event. Back at the monastery, we were directed upstairs to a room where dozens of low, circular tables were covered with dishes of grapes, apples, bananas, papayas, and watermelons, all cut up and ready for eating. There were also slices of cake and assorted
biscuits, for which I opted, as they had been cooked. This, I assumed was our lunch, but no. This was a pre-lunch feast! I was introduced to severalsayadaws and talked with them through Win San’s interpretation. I learned that the local astrologer had found the auspicious days on which the Shin Pyu could be held as the 9th and 10th of April. It had to be after everyone had paid respect to thenats (animistic spirits) in March. If respects were not paid, thenats would be jealous and would cause trouble. Also, the days chosen had to be before Thingyan, the Myanmar New Year, which would start with the Water Festival on 12th of April that year. The monks were the first to be served lunch proper, and I was bustled away.
They have to take lunch seriously and fully, as it is their last meal of the day. They may eat only until 12.00 mid-day, after which time they cannot eat until they bring back the food that the villagers put into theirthabiek, or food bowl, after 5.30 the next morning.
until one got used to it. At last, each of the applicants was admitted as a novice into the monastery. Most of them would stay for just a week. Some might stay a month or even several months. A few novices do go on to become monks, but not until they are 20 years of age.
On the second day after lunch, came the important ritual of shaving the head. This tradition is to symbolize the renunciation of the world and fashion. It was the parents who shaved the head of their child and some were very emotional because, as they thought, their child was a child of theirs no longer. After this came the talk by thesayadaw to the would-be novices. All of them agreed to observe the rules required of them. Next, they were helped to put on their russet robes, which was quite a complicated affair
Having experienced all the facets of this remarkable and auspicious ceremony, it was time for the villagers to return to their farming lives… and for me, hopefully, to respectfully tell their tale. Judyth Gregory-Smith, nature and travel writer, is the author of Myanmar: A Memoir of Loss and Recovery,Sulawesi: Ujung Pandang to Kendari,Southeast Sulawesi: Islands of Surprises, and Bernard the Wombat of Ugly Gully.
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ex pat n ew s
Airlines & Travel ASIA-PACIFIC LEADS POST-COVID GLOBAL AIR TRAFFIC RESURGENCE If the high price of air travel has got you feeling more Earth-bound, there’s not much to suggest things will change in the near term. The International Air Transport Association (IATA) recently published its latest air traffic figures for March 2023, with all markets “recording health growth.” The association said that global traffic had reached 88% of March 2019 levels, with domestic traffic now near pre-pandemic levels (98.9%). Recovery in international traffic has been lagging behind due to the gradual easing of border restrictions, but has now reached 81.6% of March 2019 levels, led by the recent resurgence of carriers in the Asia-Pacific region. Asia-Pacific airlines recorded a 283.1% increase in traffic compared to March 2022, with African carriers posting a 71.7% increase, European airlines up 38.5%, Middle Eastern carriers up 43.1%, US airlines up 51.6%, and Latin American carriers up 36.5%. Commenting on the news, IATA Director General Willie Walsh said that
ALMA NAMED VIETNAM’S ‘BEST LUXURY BEACH RESORT’ Alma, a 30-hectare resort located on Vietnam’s beautiful Cam Ranh peninsula, has been lauded as the leading luxury beachfront resort in Vietnam by this year’s Luxury Lifestyle Awards.
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the first quarter had “ended on a strong note for air travel demand,” adding, “Domestic markets have been near their pre-pandemic levels for months.” Moreover, for international travel, two key waypoints were topped. First, demand increased by 3.5 percentage points compared to the previous month’s growth, to reach 81.6% of pre-Covid levels. “This was led by a near-tripling of demand for Asia-Pacific carriers as China’s re-opening took hold. And efficiency is improving as international load factors reached 81.3%. Even more importantly, ticket sales for both domestic and international travel give every indication that strong growth will continue into the peak Northern Hemisphere summer travel season.” Walsh added that “As traveller expectations build towards the peak Northern Hemisphere summer travel season, airlines are doing their best to meet the desire and need to fly,” but warned that “a lack of capacity means that some of those travellers may be disappointed.”
based on selection criteria including reputation, credibility, brand awareness, luxury experience offered, excellence, personalization, uniqueness and craftsmanship, Alma has been deemed the winner of the ‘Best Luxury Beach Resort in Vietnam’ category. The organising committee applauded Alma for its “impeccable reputation and professional performance.”
After undergoing a selection process by the award’s organizing committee
Alma’s managing director Herbert Laubichler-Pichler said he and his team
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“However, a significant share of recent flight cancellations, primarily in Europe, are owing to job actions by air traffic controllers and others. These irresponsible actions resulted in thousands of unnecessary cancellations in March. This is unacceptable and should not be tolerated by the authorities.” IATA has previously said that it expects air passenger numbers to exceed pre-Covid levels in 2024. For more details, visit iata.org.
were thrilled that the independently owned and operated resort has been recognised on the world stage for its prime beachfront location and awe-inspiring array of attractions and services including 14 dining outlets and a cascade of 12 swimming pools.
Based in New York City, the global awards are in their 15th year and assess more than 5,000 goods and services in 400 categories from 120 regions. According to the awards’ organising committee: “The objective of these awards is to recognise excellence across the whole range of industry sectors and maintain the highest standards in the industry worldwide.”
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“Part of this capacity shortfall is attributable to the widely reported labour shortages impacting many parts of the aviation value chain, as well as supply chain issues affecting the aircraft manufacturing sector that is resulting in aircraft delivery delays.
“You couldn’t find a more desirable place to be on the water in Vietnam,” he said. “This award is testament to the talent and dedication of our incredible staff; I am grateful our team continually gives its absolute best to ensure our guests experience the ultimate beach holiday.” Alma was also recognised in the Luxury Lifestyle Awards in 2021 as the ‘Best Luxury Family Resort in Vietnam.’ To learn more, visit alma-resort.com.
MALAYSIA TOPS THAILAND INBOUND TOURISM; THAI AIRWAYS CHARTS 2023 GROWTH Star Alliance member Thai Airways has returned to profitability in the first quarter of 2023, following years of pandemic-related financial distress and a court-supervised rehabilitation. The Bangkok-based airline said that in the first three months of 2023, the number of foreign tourists traveling to Thailand totalled 6.5 million, an increase of more than 1,200% compared to the same period last year and representing roughly 60% of pre-pandemic levels. Of foreign tourists, those from within the Asia-Pacific region accounted for more than 62%, led by ASEAN countries at 30.8%. Thailand’s top five international inbound markets were Malaysia, Russia, China, South Korea, and India. Thai Airways says it continues rebuilding its fleet and to that effect it leased in two additional Airbus A350-900 aircraft in the first three months of 2023. These A350 aircraft are primarily operating flights from
Bangkok to Melbourne, Kunming, Beijing, Chengdu, Shanghai, and Guangzhou. In the first quarter, the airline returned another Boeing 777-200ER to service from storage to supplement its Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Kolkata, New Delhi, Chennai, Dhaka, and Islamabad schedules. Thai Airways had 65 active aircraft in its fleet at the end of the first quarter. The Star Alliance founding member has resumed double daily flights from its Suvarnabhumi base to London’s Heathrow Airport. One of these rotations is operated by Thai Airways’ newest 777-300ER aircraft, delivered in 2022, and the only in the fleet to still feature its Royal First experience. To learn more, visit thaiairways.com.
PHILIPPINE AIRLINES ORDERS NINE A-350s Philippine Airlines (PAL) has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Airbus for the purchase of nine A350-1000s. Under the Philippine carrier’s Ultra Long Haul Fleet project, the A350-1000 will be operated on non-stop services from Manila to North America, including to the East Coast of the US and Canada. The new aircraft will join two A350-900s already in service at the airline and currently flying to destinations in North America, Asia, and Australia. As with the A350-900, the PAL A350-1000s will be configured in a three-class layout with business class, premium economy and standard economy cabins. Captain Stanley K. Ng, President and Chief Operating Officer of Philippine Airlines, said that the range of the A350-1000 would enable the airline to fly non-stop transpacific and transpolar routes in both directions all year. These will include some of the longest commercial flights in the world, such as those linking the Philippines with New York and Toronto. With an expanded A350 fleet, PAL will have the ability to once again provide a direct link from the Philippines to Europe. Philippine Airlines operates various Airbus types on its full-service network. In addition to the A350 on long-haul intercontinental routes, PAL flies A330-300s on services to the Middle East, Australia, and various points in Asia, along with a fleet of A320 and A321 neo single aisle aircraft on its extensive domestic and regional network out of hubs in Manila and Cebu. For more information, visit philippineairlines.com.
SINGAPORE AIRLINES ADDING MORE FLIGHTS TO EUROPE Singapore flag carrier Singapore Airlines (SIA) recently posted its results for its financial year ended March 31 which revealed the group’s highest net profit in its 76-year history. The Star Alliance airline said strong demand is driving record revenue, operating profit, and passenger load factor. Industry observers suggested the airline’s sky-high airfares may also have something to do with those record profits. For the Northern Summer operating season (March 26 to October 28, 2023), the SIA Group will expand its services to China with the resumption of Scoot’s flights to Haikou, Ningbo, and Xi’an (April 2023), Nanning and Shenyang (May 2023), Jinan (July 2023), and Nanchang (August 2023). Scoot has increased flight frequencies to Athens, Fuzhou, Guangzhou, Hangzhou, Langkawi, Makassar, Manado, Penang, Perth, Taipei, Hokkaido (Sapporo), Tianjin, and Zhengzhou. Meanwhile, SIA will add supplementary flights to Barcelona, Frankfurt, and Rome to meet the higher demand during the 2023 summer peak, and resume services to Busan in August. To align capacity with demand projections, SIA will suspend services to Vancouver in October and Scoot will suspend operations to Gold Coast in July. The SIA Group’s capacity is projected to reach an average of around 83% of pre-Covid levels in the first half of its financial year to September 30. As of March 31, the overall group had 195 aircraft in its operating fleet comprising 188 passenger aircraft and seven freighters. SIA’s operating fleet comprised 133 passenger aircraft and seven freighters, while Scoot had 55 passenger aircraft. With an average age of six years and nine months, the group fleet is touted as one of the youngest and most fuel-efficient in the airline industry. For details and schedules, visit singaporeair.com.
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Holistic Wellness at Sunway Sanctuary
W
elcome to Sunway Sanctuary, a premier active senior residence that embodies the essence of holistic wellness. Here, we prioritise your total well-being so that you can live your best life, and we are dedicated to providing a nurturing and vibrant community where every aspect of your welfare and comfort is carefully considered. YOUR HOLISTIC WELLNESS JOURNEY BEGINS AT SUNWAY SANCTUARY To feel your best, maintaining good health and experiencing optimal well-being are vital – regardless of age. We have tailored our health and wellness services to ensure that you can age gracefully while enjoying a sense confidence and assuredness that you are in good hands. DEDICATED WELLNESS CENTRE At Sunway Sanctuary, we provide comprehensive healthcare services to meet all your needs. These encompass a wide range of offerings, such as traditional complementary medicine (TCM), physiotherapy, lifestyle programming, massage services, and health education. We aim to provide you with everything necessary to support wholeness of the mind, body and soul, with services and amenities conveniently at your fingertips.
Complimentary Medical Check-Up
“Wellness Programming Discussion”
ANNEXED TO OUR INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED, AWARD-WINNING SUNWAY MEDICAL CENTRE Residents at Sunway Sanctuary will enjoy convenient and direct access to our renowned flagship hospital, Sunway Medical Centre. As the largest private tertiary hospital in Malaysia, it provides a comprehensive range of healthcare services to cater to your every need. With over 60 medical specialties, the hospital boasts an extensive panel of highly skilled medical specialists. Additionally, you can rely on their round-the-clock accident and emergency unit, cutting-edge diagnostic equipment, and convenient pharmaceutical and telemedicine services. Rest assured, you will have access to top-notch healthcare facilities and expertise throughout your stay at Sunway Sanctuary. ACROSS FROM SUNWAY TRADITIONAL COMPLEMENTARY MEDICINE (TCM) CENTRE If you’re interested in complementary treatments and therapies such as Chinese herbal medicine and acupuncture, Sunway TCM Centre is located in Sunway Geo and conveniently connected to Sunway Sanctuary via an overhead bridge for easy access. WELLNESS MODELLING DESIGNED FOR YOU IN MIND As a long-term resident of Sunway Sanctuary, you’ll be entitled to a
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Sunway Sanctuary Coordinators
Sunway Sanctuary Resident
Buddy System
Lifestyle Modification Programme Effort
Duration
Achieve A Healthier You
complimentary yearly medical check-up at Sunway Medical Centre, in addition to doctor visits by Sunway Home Healthcare. Consequently, you’ll be assigned to a dedicated Sunway Sanctuary coordinator to have a Wellness Programming Discussion as we recognise individuality in each and every resident; lifestyle difference, diet difference, and overall preference. A tailored lifestyle modification programme will be designed with you in mind as a joint effort to achieve a healthier you. For more information on Sunway Sanctuary, contact their sales team at +6019 313 0061, or discover more at sunwaysanctuary.com.my.
med ic al tourism
A Thousand Lives Changed
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unway Medical Centre, Sunway City has once again highlighted its commitment to innovative patient care with the administration of one thousand robot-assisted surgeries. This milestone achievement comes as another step in the hospital’s diligent investment in the latest smart hospital technology to improve patient care and precision medicine. Sunway Medical Centre procured the highly advanced da Vinci Si Surgical System in 2016 and their latest addition, the da Vinci Xi 4th Generation Surgical System was the first of its kind in the country when it was launched in January 2022. With its advanced surgical technology, the da Vinci Xi makes complex surgeries simpler and enhances surgical performance, allowing Sunway Medical Centre’s surgeons to have an extended range of motion and substantially improved vision while operating. Sunway Medical Centre continues to be at the forefront of technology with the acquisition of additional cuttingedge robotic surgery systems and made history by carrying out Malaysia’s first-ever robot-assisted joint replacement surgery in 2021. These state-of-the-art systems allowed Sunway Medical Centre to successfully conduct over a thousand robotassisted procedures with increased precision and less post-operative pain for their patients. The new state-of-the-art robotic surgical system combines learnings from the past 20 years to enhance surgical performance, simplify complicated surgery procedures, and create the best outcomes for Minimally Invasive Surgery (MIS). When it comes to operating the da Vinci Xi, these specialists execute it through a console by the operating table. From the console, the practicing surgeon manipulates an array of miniaturised instruments attached to the robotic arms. During the entire procedure, the surgeon involved is
provided with a holistic view of the operation through a 3D camera attached to one of the robotic arms which magnifies the surgical site up to 10 times. The surgeon’s hand, wrist and finger movements are then transmitted from the console to the instruments attached to the robot’s arms. With such advanced surgical technology, the patients stand to benefit from smaller incisions, shorter hospitalisation, reduced pain, less risk of infection; minimal scarring, reduced blood loss and faster recovery time to return to normal activities. On top of that, it permits patients who are not candidates for laparoscopic surgeries to have MIS. As of now, the da Vinci Xi 4th generation is being used in the following surgeries: • Urology Surgery (Prostate, kidney and urology reconstructive surgery) • Gynaecology Surgery (Uterus and fibroid removal surgery) • Colorectal Surgery (Colon and rectal surgery) • Hepato-pancreatic Biliary Surgery (Liver, pancreas, gall bladder and hernia surgery) Besides da Vinci Xi, Sunway Medical Centre also operates with systems such as Mako SmartRobotics and ROSA Knee System, which are used in knee and hip replacement surgeries. These robotic technologies create an X-ray or CT-derived, 3D module of the joint that enables surgeons to pre-plan the surgery.
With this pre-surgical plan, the software will guide the surgeon on where to make incisions and how much to cut before placing the implant. These robotic systems allow a higher accuracy of implant placements, reduced bone cuts, better soft tissue protection, less blood loss, less post-operative pain, shorter hospital stays, faster recovery, and long-term durability. Performing one thousand robotassisted surgeries represents a significant milestone for Sunway Medical Centre. Since Sunway Medical Centre first introduced robotic systems into its surgical procedures, its goal has always been to revolutionise Malaysian healthcare by looking for innovative ways to enhance patients’ experience, while keeping their comfort and well-being at the top of mind. Sunway Medical Centre is proud of its progress in helping over a thousand patients and looks forward to helping thousands more in the years to come. Learn more at sunwaymedical.com
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The Cradle of Culture: Inside Penang’s Temple of Fine Arts In the heart of the city’s hustle and bustle, yet seemingly far away from it all, the Temple of Fine Arts is a place in George Town that’s ripe for exploration. Yukeshwaran Devadas recently did just that, sharpening his frame of mind on dance, music, culture, and wholesome food.
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ited along Babington Avenue, the Temple of Fine Arts occupies the centre lot along a stretch of houses. The well-landscaped botany with colourful flowers and homey layout usher in a sense of calmness. My receptive mind caught up with all the familiar details that communicate serenity and relaxation. But then – Chik! Chik! Chik! – a mellifluous sound from the dance hall soon caught my attention. It came from ghungroo, a traditional anklet worn by Indian dancers. Unknotting myself from the garden’s scenic appeal, I pursued the classical trail. Gracing the ankles of the performers, the small metallic bells strung together
Temple of Fine Arts
on a cloth create a collective rhythm as their feet thump on the ground. My second impression inspired a longing to understand deeper, to see beyond the surface.
Temple of Fine Arts entrance
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The Temple of Fine Arts (TFA) is the brainchild of Swami Shantanand Saraswathi, whose aim was to help youth rediscover the cultural, artistic, and spiritual wealth of their forefathers. He believed that music and dance were essential to the holistic development of a child. Within 20 years, TFA spread its wings across Malaysia, Singapore, India, and even Perth, Australia. Joining hands with volunteers and professionals, what first started as passing down arts and
Odissi Master
stick hits the board, the students simultaneously move their hands, head, waist, flanks, chest, and feet.
Heading towards Annalakshmi
culture to the next generation, also unfolded into community service. From sponsoring underprivileged students to offering medical assistance through Clinic Derma Shivasahta, they have an eye on society. The cadence of life feels slower here, and people have the time and inclination to start conversations about what makes TFA what it is. Lush gardens adorned with various plants and sculptures are an instant attraction. The walkway leading to Annalakshmi may be short, but tempts you to pace back and forth, admiring the little details that make up the stretch of greenery. CLASSICAL BEATS AND DANCES Could be my curiosity but surely my excitement got Ms Seethalakshmi to approve my quick peek inside her Odissi Class. “This is the only school offering Odissi dance in Northern Malaysia,” shared the master, nonchalantly. With traditional music playing in the background, she returned to her position between her students and a wall-stretched mirror. When not teaching steps and expressions of the Orissa-origin dance, she holds onto Thattu Kazhi and Thattu Palagai, classical instruments that direct the angas (six body parts) of the dancers. Each time the wooden
The minutes ticked by, and the Odissi steps got elaborate, culminating in expressive eyes and eyebrows. I admired the students’ tenacity in replicating the teacher’s movements. These intricate steps can easily overwhelm a person and manifest as uncertainties during performances, but the level of synchronization is achieved through regular and relentless practice. I also wished to witness Bharatanatyam, another classical South Indian dance, but will save that for another day. “Not just young ones, but many international school students and working adults come after their occupied hours,” said Ms Seethalakshmi when asked about the different age learners. While explaining that music and dance correlate with our senses, she directed me to a room filled with musical instruments. There were Mridangam, Veena, Sitar, Tabla, and even a violin, each ready to be used for their respective classes. Looking at more props, costumes and photographs of earlier occasions, I could see the sheer work behind every performance. Each musical instrument has its own unique built, playing methods and chronology. Having seen Veena, a plucked string instrument, I got a closer look and was immediately disabused of any notions of traditional instruments being less complicated. SYLLABUS FROM THE PAST “Many people have dreams to succeed in music and dance, and TFA is a place to make it a reality, without a second thought,” explained the Odissi master when asked about the wealth of knowledge. TFA is a school with its
Odissi dance taking place
own syllabus, which includes Natya Sastra, a 2,000-year-old literature that is regarded as the world’s largest and most extensive theatrical and dance text. Its significance to classical Indian dance styles also connects to dramas, depicting emotions that narrate an entire performance. In this time-honoured text, it defines 13 head positions, 36 eye positions, nine neck positions, 37 hand positions, and 10 body positions. Exams are conducted for students to graduate from this classical school. Nevertheless, children between the ages of 4 and 6 can sign up for Bala Vihar, which introduces the fundamentals of dance, music, rhythm, storytelling, drama, yoga, and Indian culture. Teachers come from as far as India to ensure that the best they have learnt is passed down to future teachers. Just observing a single Odissi class gave me
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Patches of colours and characters make up the dining space
an insight into the layers that are often overlooked. If I had the chance, I would have peeked into other dance, music and even the Carnatic vocal class.
Beautiful gardens
Keep your eyes peeled, as you can spot many details
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THE ALLURE OF ANNALAKSHMI Food and environment are part of our comfort consciousness, and both need to complement one another. Annalakshmi, TFA’s in-house restaurant, seems to have found the way, authentically. Fringed by a stretch of garden with traditional sculptures and hanging plants, the semi-open dining space is a place to pamper your palate and peace. The urge to signify the traditional essence extends to visual treats, in the form of vivid paintings and artworks, complementing the acoustic music. The diverse crowd of races and nationalities is a telltale sign of a good atmosphere. Spending some time in the garden was refreshing, particularly when the chipping birds were outdoing the tuneful sounds of wind chime bells.
The exclusively vegetarian restaurant is known for its buffet lunch, which is available on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Visiting on a weekend, I got a chance to try out the hearty spread. From starter to dessert, I graced up every space on the plate in one go – curry leaf rice, spicy potato, lentil gravy, nut-based tofu sambal, and onion pakora – disregarding the fact I could still refill them later. The homemade masala and curry leaf powders lend a subtle flavour, adding some depth without overpowering the ingredients. While rich colours were the first to impress, I was surprised by how the variation of textures came through. I have also bookmarked my next visit for a Friday because it is the day that rotates regional menus such as Kerala, Punjab, and Maharashtra. “Home-cooked food – it’s perhaps the common word we hear from all diners,” says Ms Vasanthi Puru when asked about feedback. The amiable ‘Person in Charge’ also revealed the popularity of the à la carte meals,
A hearty meal indeed
Freshly made samosas
comprising Indian delicacies and local favourites. Think of pasembur, paal appam (rice and coconut milk pancakes), mee rebus, oat-based burgers, mango lassi, and fresh cow milk coffee. Not forgetting their best-selling, spherical sweet called laddu, which has that melt-in-your-mouth texture. The kitchen is run largely by volunteers, and it was exciting to watch samosas freshly dropped into hot oil and ragi idli (Finger Millet cakes) coming off steamers. Conversations in the kitchen also loomed about expecting visitors from China and Taiwan soon, spurring the proliferation that food unites people. Despite the laborious work., they have been maintaining wallet-friendly prices, an act honouring the name of the establishment – Annam stands for food and Lakshmi is the deity of prosperity. MERRYMAKING ANNUAL FESTIVALS In parts of my conversations with Ms Vasanthi and Ms Seethalakshmi, both were setting the bar high for
Ragi idli being made
Navarathiri, as being the benchmark for the best experiences in TFA. During this 9-day annual festival, this place brims with colours and characters. Ancestral teachings have always anchored the concomitant studentteacher relationship, and this is the best time to witness it. There will be dance and musical performances where former students, students and teachers perform all together. And the final day sees a mini procession within TFA. “It would be a festival in the truest sense of the word,” expressed Ms Vasanthi. The balance between TFA’s allure is more than a dichotomy between being an art lover and not. You get to appreciate various stances that build up a culture, driven by sheer passion from the people behind it. To me, the food was good, as were the performances and indeed the entire atmosphere, but it’s the aim of TFA to preserve cultural wellbeing that earns the merit. Heading home, the sound of ghungroo kept lingering in my mind, but now it was rather more familiar and meaningful.
One of the most revered sweets in Annalakshmi is laddu
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e d uc at i o n
School Snaps Malaysia’s numerous international schools are regularly abuzz with activities, and we share here just some of the news of their recent events and successes. Empowering Students to Nurture a Greener Tomorrow! The International School of Kuala Lumpur (ISKL) held a week-long celebration in honor of Earth Week, emphasizing the importance of environmental stewardship across all divisions. Elementary School students participated in the “Panther Swap,” a clothes exchange event promoting recycling and reusing garments. Through swapping clothes, students learned the value of extending the life of garments and minimizing waste while fostering a sense of community. Middle School students took part in various eco-conscious activities, such as compost planting, made “Planet Pledges” to commit to personal environmentally-friendly actions, and showcased their artistic talents in a drawing competition centered around environmental themes. High School students organized Earth Fest, an event celebrating Earth Day through interactive activities. This initiative highlighted the urgency of environmental issues and encouraged students to take responsibility for their role in preserving the planet. Overall, ISKL’s Earth Week celebration was just one of the ways the school is encouraging students to develop the skills, attitudes, and knowledge they need to take on new responsibilities, face challenges, and become socially responsible global citizens. Discover how ISKL empowers students to create a better world by visiting iskl.edu.my.
GIS Students Gain Valuable Business Insights from Aston Martin Visit Garden International School (GIS) Y13 Business students recently visited Aston Martin KL to gain real-world insights into the 110-year-old luxury brand’s business development and marketing strategies. The visit was part of the GIS Aspire Programme, which enables students to delve deeper into the inner workings of top companies, and to enrich their academic experiences and develop practical perspectives beyond theoretical concepts. The students were given a unique opportunity to explore Aston Martin’s impressive sports car collection while learning about successful marketing tactics and customer engagement techniques. This visit was a perfect blend of education and inspiration, encouraging young minds to pursue their aspirations in the field of business and marketing. Overall, the visit to Aston Martin’s proved to be an exciting and enriching experience for the students, offering a valuable combination of hands-on learning and motivational encouragement.
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D i n i n g • S h o p p i n g • S e r v i c e s
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Dining
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Dining
Be@Two: One World’s Singular Sensation B chad merchant
It’s a numbers affair at our latest restaurant, as the outlet is at the beautiful One World Hotel, and it’s called Be@Two, an admittedly curious name. But as it’s located on level two of the hotel, we could at least figure out the reasoning. We didn’t quite know what to expect at Be@Two, but after a most enjoyable evening there with a procession of delectable dishes that was fairly close to perfection, we had only good things to say about the place. True, we may not be sure about the name, but we were dazzled by the space. Chic, appealing, and spacious, Be@Two is not your ordinary restaurant. It’s a chameleon-like space that effortlessly transforms to cater to almost anything you need it to be. It’s perfectly fine for a quiet dinner or a quick lunch, but it can be so much more. Whether you’re in the mood for a sizzling birthday bash, a professional corporate training session, a memorable anniversary soirée, or a glamorous wedding extravaganza, we reckon this place can do it all, while easily accommodating up to 150 of your nearest and dearest. Floor-toceiling windows let in loads of natural light and afford views of the beautiful outdoor space that’s part of the outlet. A huge 17-by-10-foot LED screen ensures an immersive and engaging visual feast for events, and there’s even a small stage – perfect for some live entertainment. We were really impressed with the
lovely space – both indoor and outdoor – but would the food deliver? Happily, every dish exceeded our expectations. The current menu here is fairly short, but we don’t mind that at all – “do a little and do it well” always works for us. (The menu comprised just five starters, five dishes off the snack menu, and nine mains.) Our mains began with the Martiko ‘Jamon De Pato’ French Baguette (RM40), which is sliced French baguette topped beautifully with Ibérico duck ham, muskmelon salsa, sweet potato chips, and arugula leaves. (If you find yourself having to look up what, exactly, a ‘muskmelon’ is, fear not – we did, too – it’s very similar to a cantaloupe, or rock melon.) Whatever we expected when we ordered this, the dish that appeared amazed us. Beautifully photogenic, this was a delicious and rather unique way to start our meal. From the starters and snacks menus, we opted for the Deep-Fried Calamari (RM48) and Moules Marinieres (RM68), a generous serving of French mussels in a mouth-watering white wine sauce. Made with Chardonnay, chives, and dashi, these super-fresh air-flown mussels were an absolute revelation… easily among the best we’ve sampled in years. The food kept coming, including a Soft Shell Crab Brioche (RM48) and a Smoked Duck Carbonara (RM42), both
of which we loved. There really wasn’t a single misfire among the various dishes we selected; the food here is simply outstanding. Dessert lovers will be happy to head over to the well-stocked dessert case and select a sweet treat. The fruit-based drinks and smoothies we tried were superb, too, and represent a far better value than paying the same price – about RM20 – for a soda. On that point, the menu’s prices for sodas and beers were eye-popping, but the food prices were modest and all prices are nett, which is something we always like. So if you’re around One World Hotel, be sure to check out Be@Two. It’s great for a casual and very tasty meal, but we think this space would really come into its own for curated private events, and hope to put that to the test ourselves soon!
Location & Details Be@Two One World Hotel First Avenue, Lebuh Bandar Utama, Bandar Utama 47800 Petaling JayaLogo T: 03.7681 1111
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Dining
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Dining
A Breath of Fresh Air, Italian Style BY Jonathan Di Rollo
Discerning foodies are always on the lookout for restaurants that offer something special and different, ideally something that they can’t easily replicate at home. For Italian cuisine, one of the answers to this question is fresh, highquality ingredients, prepared with authenticity. At A’Fresco Trattoria Italianna, a new Italian restaurant in TT Gardens, TTDI, this philosophy shines through in every dish. One of the standout features of A’Fresco is its varied and creative menu. The starters alone are enough to get your taste buds buzzing, with dishes like burrata figs salad and wild mushroom soup topped with millac foam and white truffle oil. The use of fresh and high-quality ingredients is evident in every bite, and the flavours are perfectly balanced. Moving on to the primi courses, A’Fresco doesn’t disappoint with dishes like miso carbonara that creatively fuses unagi kabayaki, onsen egg, seaweed, and furikake with pasta. For those who prefer more traditional Italian fare, hearty options like beef ragu pappardelle and risotto with fresh white clams and black mussels are also available. Pizza lovers are also in for a treat
at A’Fresco. The classic Margherita pizza is a must-try, but the restaurant also offers a wide selection of other tempting options like truffle mushroom, pulled chicken, lamb, and buttered leeks. The pizza dough is fermented and infused with herbs and black raisins, adding a unique flavour and texture to each bite. For the secondi course, meat lovers will find plenty to enjoy at A’Fresco. The Beef brisket, which is Angus brisket braised for 10 hours with beef jus mixed with beef ramruyage burned butter and served with potato cream, is a standout dish. Another option is the fillet de Manzo, made from Angus grade MB2 beef tenderloin, and there’s also a very nice herb-crusted lamb rack. Fish lovers will also appreciate the Norwegian salmon with white clams, beautifully prepared and presented. A’Fresco also offers bar bites for those looking for a quick snack to enjoy with a drink. And for dessert, classic Italian favourites like mount mess, crème brûlée, and tiramisu are all available, as well as a selection of fresh cakes from the cake cabinet. One of the best things about A’Fresco is its convenient location and ample parking right in front of the
restaurant. Plus, with a total of six restaurants in TT Gardens, you could try them all in a week and still have Sunday off! A’Fresco is a must-visit for anyone who loves Italian cuisine and appreciates the use of fresh and highquality ingredients in every dish. With a creative and varied menu, excellent service, and a convenient location, it’s the perfect spot for a special night out or a casual lunch with friends. (They have a nice three-course lunch menu for just RM28+ on weekdays from noon to 2.30pm.) If you find yourself in the TTDI area, drop in and you’ll see exactly what we mean!
Location & Details A’Fresco Trattoria Italianna L-3-1, Bangunan Ahp 2 Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 3, Taman Tun Dr Ismail 60000 Kuala Lumpur T: 016.558 8643 Logo W: facebook.com/afrescotrattoria
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Dining/Services Food & drink by david bowden
Legaris Wines from Spain
Winemaker Jorge Bombín
The vineyards of Legaris Wines
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Bodegas Legaris, one of the finest wine producers from Curiel de Duero and San Martín de Rubiales, has almost 100 hectares of vineyards extending over two estates, located just east of Valladolid in the Ribera del Duero wine region in northern Spain. This part of Spain is best known for the wines of Vega Sicilia, possibly the country’s most prestigious winery. Its Único wine of 1970 is regarded as the best wine ever produced in Spain – and the one that helped establish
Ribera del Duero as a significant wineproducing region. Legaris vines were only planted in 1999, but the resultant wines have quickly made their mark. The winery produces a range of fine red and white wines that already appeal to wine connoisseurs in 50 countries; Malaysia has just become one of them. While these vines may be considered young, Legaris also sources grapes
Dining
Legaris Wines in Spain’s Ribera del Duero region
from local suppliers who cultivate old vine vineyards. Many of these gnarly old plants are grown as bush vines without trellising. The backbone of these plantings is Tinta Fina, which is the local name for the grape many of us know as Tempranillo. Cabernet Sauvignon plays a supporting role, while some whites are also made, including the Verdejo featured below. The estate’s reds are skillfully crafted by winemaker Jorge Bombín to produce well-structured wines with complex aromas and a big, full palate. Bombín believes in minimalist intervention to ensure the flavours of the fruit are fully expressed. The three red wines noted here are produced in Ribera del Duero (the banks of River Duero), not to be confused with the famous Douro wine region in neighbouring Portugal, where renowned Ports are produced. However, the geographically challenged can be excused in this instance, as they are, in fact, the same river but with different names (in Spain, it’s Duero, and in Portugal, it’s Douro). Spain’s Denominación de Origen (DO) wine classification system is similar to France’s appellation. It provides a regulatory guarantee that the wines have attained carefully specified high
Legaris Roble
standards. Another interesting twist in this DO is that a small amount of white Albillo grapes may be added to ‘soften’ red wines, along the lines of white Viognier, which may be added to some Rhône-style Shiraz wines in France and now Australia.
LEGARIS Roble This is the youngest and freshest wine of the three reds. Under DO conditions, Roble wines are aged less than 12 months, and in this case, the
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Dining & drink Food
Legaris Crianza
wine has matured in oak barrels for just three months. This enables the fruit to come to the fore, so if you enjoy a less complicated wine with ripe red berry fruit flavours, this is the Legaris wine for you. It has a maturity on the palate that reflects its pedigree in being sourced from old bush vines. This is a wine for enjoying now with pasta and fresh cheeses. Producer: Legaris Style: Roble Region: Ribera del Duero Vintage: 2019 Grape Varieties: Tinta Fina (Tempranillo) Alcohol Content: 14% Closure: Cork Price: RM98
LEGARIS CRIANZA The Tinta Fina style becomes more complex with barrel and bottle ageing, with crianza wines having spent at least 12 months in oak casks as determined by DO regulations. The Legaris Crianza has been matured in both French and American oak barrels to impart a slight vanilla aroma to the wine. The estate sources barrels from over 20 cooperages to impart subtle differences, but in the end, these are blended with 8%
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Cabernet Sauvignon to extend the flavour profile. Subtle differences are created in the wine from the use of wild yeast in the fermentation, barrel variation, and grapes sourced from various parts of the region. The result is an intense dark red wine with flavours of dark berries to make it an elegant wine to accompany lamb dishes, meat casseroles, and mediumaged cheeses.
The Tinta Fina grapes in this wine are sourced from vines that are 40 years or older. These are hand-harvested from a high location (850 m above sea level), bunches are hand-selected, natural yeasts are used in the fermentation, and the wine is matured for 18 months in French oak.
Producer: Legaris Style: Crianza Region: Ribera del Duero Vintage: 2019 Grape Varieties: Tinta Fina (92%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) Alcohol Content: 15% Closure: Cork Price: RM124
LEGARIS RESERVA Saving the best red for last, the Legaris Reserva is the most complex of the three red wines reviewed. Under DO regulations, reserva wines need to have been aged for at least 36 months, of which 12 months must have been in oak barrels. This adds to the cost of the wine, but the Legaris Crianza offers great value for a wine of such high stature.
Legaris Reserva
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The Legaris Reserva has a deep, dark, clay-red colour with garnet hues and is noteworthy for aromas of rich dark berry fruit. We savoured these aromas before sipping the wine and then enjoying a bold, warm palate with a long finish. This is a wine that is best decanted an hour or so before drinking, and we recommend (like the other two reds) that the flavours will be enhanced by cooling the wine down in the fridge for a few hours prior to consumption. Enjoy this with beef, lamb, or deer and mature, aged cheeses. We also contemplated enjoying this red wine with beef rendang. When the growing conditions are perfect, some estates in Ribera del Duero may produce a gran reserva, which must be aged for at least 60 months (24 of which must be in oak barrels). Producer: Legaris Style: Reserva Region: Ribera del Duero Vintage: 2015 Grape Varieties: Tinta Fina (100%) Alcohol Content: 15%
Closure: Cork Price: RM181
LEGARIS VERDEJO Verdejo, a rarely seen grape variety, is best grown in neighbouring Rueda. Despite its name sounding similar to the French wine Verdelho, it is a different grape variety but with some similarities on the palate to its French cousin. Under the region’s winemaking laws, Rueda must contain 50% Verdejo, but in the case of the Legaris label, it is 100% Verdejo and produced without Sauvignon Blanc or Macabeo like some others in the district. Legaris Verdejo
This Verdejo is matured in stainless steel to produce a white wine of subtle flavours and hints of fennel, lime, and other citrus. It has an herbaceous aroma similar to Sauvignon Blanc. It has a slightly bitter taste to add interest to an already interesting wine. An added advantage is that they age well, unlike some other wines made from white grape varieties. So, if you enjoy a glass of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, consider Verdejo an exciting new prospect. This is a wonderful wine to drink as an
aperitif or to accompany Chinese food, especially rice-based dishes, as well as fish and pasta. Producer: Legaris Style: Verdejo Region: Rueda, Serrada, and La Seca Vintage: 2020 Grape Varieties: Verdejo Alcohol Content: 13% Closure: Cork Price: RM98
Fledgling vines on the grounds of Legaris
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Dining & drink Food by chad merchant
The World’s Most Maligned Seasoning Stages a Comeback Nearly 120 years ago, a chemist in Japan brought us one of the most amazing seasonings the world has ever known. Poor medical science, along with a dash of racism, led to its decades-long demonization, but at long last, MSG may be making a comeback. In 1907, a Japanese chemist named Kikunae Ikeda extracted glutamic acid (or glutamate) – a naturally occurring substance that gives certain foods a delicious, longlasting savoury flavour – from a huge amount of kombu seaweed. He called this taste ‘umami’ and later broke down the substance into monosodium glutamate (MSG), which can be used as a crystallized seasoning similar to salt and sugar. Businessman Saburosuke Suzuki acquired a joint share of the MSG patent the following year, and together with Ikeda, founded a company called Ajinomoto (aji-no-moto, or 味 の素, means ‘essence of taste’) to manufacture the seasoning, which quickly became an award-winning invention and a prized condiment in Japan. MSG’s popularity spread around the world, and the US military even held the first-ever MSG symposium after World War II to discuss how it could be used to make tastier field rations in a bid to boost soldiers’ morale. However, in 1968, an American doctor published a letter in a medical journal titled ‘Chinese Restaurant Syndrome,’ describing symptoms like numbness in the back of the neck, general weakness, and palpitations, which he posited without evidence were caused by MSG, along with other ingredients like cooking wine, and high amounts of sodium. (In retrospect, this has been characterized as not only scientifically and medically irresponsible, but likely fuelled by anti-Asian sentiment, marking perhaps the first time a seasoning became a victim of racism.) MSG took the brunt of the hit, and its reputation was severely damaged
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and Ajinomoto’s vice president of customer engagement and strategic development, speaking to CNN of the backlash caused by the now-infamous letter. “Our process [of making MSG] is by fermentation, which is very similar to how beer is brewed or how yogurt is made.” by the letter, with the effects rippling throughout the world over the following decades. Restaurants and chefs of the time publicly swore off MSG, and food and beverage publicists begged not to be asked about it. Diners experiencing any discomfort after a meal blamed it on MSG. Despite being a widely used and safe ingredient, the ‘MSG controversy’ remains to this day.
First, plants with sugar – like sugarcane or corn – are mashed and fermented with microbes to create glutamate, an amino acid found in food that’s also produced in our body and acts as a neurotransmitter. Then, sodium is added and the glutamate is crystalized to become the light and flaky salt-like MSG we see in grocery stores and kitchens now.
A SEASON(ING) OF CHANGE
“I’m a scientist by training. I think how MSG works is one of the coolest scientific things,” explains Rains. “We have different receptors on our tongue for different tastes. Our receptor for umami looks almost like a Venus Flytrap under a microscope,” she adds, forming a ‘C’ with her hand. “Glutamate is the amino acid that has the snug fit to that receptor.”
However, things may be changing at last. More and more, restaurants and top chefs – such as Heston Blumenthal, Eddie Huang, Calvin Eng, and David Chang – are incorporating MSG into their dishes. Common foods like canned vegetables, potato chips and other savoury snacks, deli meats, condiments (including ketchup, mayonnaise, salad dressings, and soy sauce), and soups use MSG. And here in Malaysia, anytime you see “contains permitted flavour enhancer” on an ingredient list, it’s a safe bet that they’re referring to MSG, at least in part. Though the stigma around the seasoning inarguably persists – after all, that’s why those ingredient lists don’t just say monosodium glutamate – slowly but surely, it’s getting chipped away. “Many don’t know that MSG is plant-derived,” says Tia Rains, a Chicago-based nutrition scientist
It really is pretty cool how the two ‘parts’ fit to generate the umami taste sensation. But what is umami anyway?
SAY ‘OO-MAH-MEE’ In modern times, it has been labelled as the ‘fifth taste,’ in addition to the traditional and more widely known tastes of sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. This umami taste is commonly referred to as savoury, and when glutamate binds with the receptors on our tongue, it creates the sensation of umami. And if you really want to nerd out with your food, know that
Dining
their chest,” Rains notes, “I get worried – and I’d say, ‘You need to follow up on that because MSG is not an allergen. It’s not going to cause an allergic response. Our bodies make glutamate, so it would not be possible to have an allergy to glutamate’.”
the presence of inosinate or guanylate nucleotides in the food enables glutamate to adhere to the receptors for a more extended period of time. “In layman’s terms, if you want to make an umami bomb, combine the glutamate – which is the core in creating umami – with one of these nucleotides (inosinate and guanylate). It’s like getting multiple hits of umami to your brain,” Rains explains. Although it may sound complex to see the science laid out this way, chances are you’ve been playing around with glutamate, inosinate, and guanylate in your regular cooking without even knowing it. For one well-known example, there’s a reason why so many Westerners love beef stew. It’s because beef, high in inosinate, can be made even more flavourful by adding glutamate-rich ingredients such as onions and carrots. On the Japanese side of the table, meanwhile, a combination of bonito fish, which is high in inosinate, and seaweed kombu, which is high in glutamate, creates an intense umami taste. Some foods like cheese and tomatoes contain natural glutamate, which enhances their flavour profile with umami notes.
THE ENDURING POWER OF MISINFORMATION And what about those cases of afflicted diners? “When people tell me that they ate at a Chinese restaurant and they had trouble breathing and tightness in
Despite persistent claims here and there of negative reactions to MSG from diners, decades of scientific trials have failed to prove the existence of MSG sensitivity. Simply put, it’s most likely not really a thing. That said, everyone’s body chemistry is different, and it’s probably best to remember the “moderation in all things” maxim with this or any other food additive. But moderation is pretty easy when it comes to MSG. Studies have shown that even the mildest of potential side effects would only occur when consuming more than three grams of MSG without food. That’s not only a whole lot of MSG, it’s also in itself quite unlikely, given that most people of course consume MSGinfood, and most food contains far, far less than three grams of added MSG. When using the product at home, the use of a light hand is critical – literally a pinch or two in the entire dish. Government organizations around the world have listed MSG as safe to eat. This includes the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which lists MSG as ‘generally recognized as safe,’ or GRAS. Global food-regulating bodies like the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and the World Health Organization (WHO) also agree: MSG suffers from a reputation that it never deserved. “Although many people identify themselves as sensitive to MSG, in studies with such individuals given MSG or a placebo, scientists have not been able to consistently trigger reactions,” says the FDA’swebsite. It’s merely the power of suggestion, passed down by decades of misinformation, urban legends, and an era of anti-Asian sentiment that sadly, still persists in some quarters.
lead to better health – at least in theory. The Centre for Food Safety in Hong Kong notes that using MSG could reduce sodium intake, which is known for health issues like high blood pressure, heart disease, and stroke. With the MSG triggering that umami sensation, less salt is needed to boost flavours in food, so sodium intake can be reduced. “When used in combination with a small amount of salt during food preparation, MSG has been reported to reduce the total amount of sodium in a recipe by 20 to 40%,” said afood safety assessmentcarried out by a Hong Kong government scientific officer. The science isn’t fully settled, and there have been concerns with heavy use of MSG being linked to weight gain, but generally speaking, when used in moderation, the strong consensus among experts seems to be that MSG is safe. So don’t be too afraid of that little packet of Aji-No-Moto or Maggi Cukup Rasa on the shelf at your local supermarket. As MSG enjoys a longoverdue renaissance as a safe and almost magical seasoning, it deserves a place in your kitchen cupboard, too.
Sources: • edition.cnn.com/travel/article/ msg-changing-views-cmd/ index.html • fda.gov/food/food-additivespetitions/questions-andanswers-monosodiumglutamate-msg • cfs.gov.hk/english/multimedia/ multimedia_pub/multimedia_ pub_fsf_109_02.html • health.clevelandclinic.org/ismsg-really-harmful • theguardian.com/ lifeandstyle/2018/may/21/ chinese-restaurant-syndromehas-msg-been-unfairlydemonised • umamiinfo.com/what/ whatisumami • ajinomoto.com
Ironically enough, MSG could actually
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chefs and cooking Dining By eatdrink staff
GastroMonth Gives a Boost to Some of Malaysia’s Finest Restaurants Holy galloping gourmet! If you like amazing food – from local to international fare – June is not going to be the ideal month to start a strict diet! And why not? Well, Malaysia is in for not just a treat, but a month-long, mouthwatering extravaganza as the ultimate culinary celebration arrives: FunNow Malaysia presents GastroMonth Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2023! Running from June 1 to 30, this month-long feast promises a tantalizing array of gastronomic delights that will leave you craving for more. Prepare to indulge in the flavours of over 40 renowned establishments and top chefs, all handpicked from the MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2023, featuring everything from One MICHELIN Star to Bib Gourmand and MICHELIN Selected restaurants. The entire culinary team assembled at The RuMa’s luxurious ATAS restaurant for a very special one-night launch event that saw all of the chefs involved in GastroMonth on hand to present a stunning seven-course winepaired menu to an eclectic gathering of very appreciative guests. And now, for the next month, this culinary tour de force is making its way to some of Malaysia’s most esteemed restaurants. GastroMonth Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2023 brings you special menus and curated food experiences that showcase the very best of these exceptional eateries. Get ready to
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embark on a culinary journey like no other, with Malaysia’s four One MICHELIN Star restaurants taking centre stage. In the vibrant streets of Kuala Lumpur, DC. by Darren Chin invites you to experience an immersive omakase adventure in their newly launched Cellar space. Prepare to be dazzled by the chef’s French flair and unique culinary style, as he crafts meals from the freshest ingredients right before your eyes. Meanwhile, Dewakan surprises guests with exclusive seats at their elusive test kitchen, where Darren Teoh and his team present never-before-sold culinary creations that will tantalize your taste buds. Heading north to George Town, Penang, Restaurant au Jardin offers a “Best of The Year” menu that guarantees a dining experience to remember. And if you’re craving authentic Peranakan cuisine, Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery has you covered with a sampling platter that will transport you to flavour paradise. Benson Chang, the General Manager of FunNow Malaysia, shares his excitement: “With the launch of GastroMonth Kuala Lumpur and Penang, we aim to support our vibrant food and beverage community, make culinary experiences more accessible to Malaysians, and solidify Malaysia’s position as a global gastronomic destination. This is a golden
opportunity for food enthusiasts from near and far to discover and savour the delectable delights of our culinary scene.” This is a fantastic month-long, notto-be-missed culinary adventure encompassing One MICHELIN Star, Bib Gourmand, and MICHELIN Selected restaurants across Kuala Lumpur and Penang. GastroMonth Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2023 offers a thrilling variety of unique experiences catering to every type of diner. From fine dining experiences featuring progressive Malaysian and Indian cuisine in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, to savouring delicate Cantonese fare at the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, or indulging in steamy streetside bamboo noodles in George Town, there’s something to delight every palate. These curated menus are available for a limited time only, from June 1 to 30, 2023. So mark your calendars, gather your fellow food lovers, and get ready to embark on a culinary adventure you won’t soon forget! View the full list of restaurants, see their delicious menus and make your bookings now at events.myfunnow.com/gastromonthmalaysia-2023.
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Services
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Services advertorial
Understanding Inheritance Tax for British Expats Did you know that if you are a British expat or have assets worth over £325,000 in the UK, then the British Government could be entitled to 40% of your estate? That’s right, it’s called Inheritance Tax (IHT), and it’s a tax on the estate (the property, money, and possessions) of someone who has passed away. If you’re British, the tax is due on worldwide assets, regardless of how long you’ve been abroad. The UK Inheritance Tax is one of the most complicated tax regimes in the world, and it is important for everyone to understand the implications and potential solutions. If you are concerned about how much tax your loved ones will have to pay after you pass away, then you won’t want to miss our upcoming June 22 seminar on Inheritance Tax planning.
TOPICS COVERED: • An overview of the UK Inheritance Tax rules and how they apply to you.
• The benefits of estate planning and how it can help you reduce your tax liability. • The different types of trusts and how they can be used. • Lifetime gifts and how they can help you reduce your estate’s value • Common mistakes to avoid when planning your estate and how to ensure your wishes are carried out. • Q&A session with our expert Estate Planning Specialist.
Melbourne Capital Group is an award-winning, independent financial services company providing bespoke personal and corporate wealth management solutions. We listen to your individual circ*mstances and financial goals. By doing so, we can offer personalised wealth management strategies to help you achieve them. To RSVP, just scan this QR code:
WHO IS THIS SUITABLE FOR? • British expatriates. • You have assets worth over £325,000 in the United Kingdom. Our seminar is presented by Jamie Bubb-Sacklyn, a UK Chartered Financial Planner and Estate Planning Specialist. Should you be unable to attend the seminar on the June 22, feel free to book a complimentary call via info@ melbournecapitalgroup.com.
For more information, email info@ melbournecapitalgroup.com. Follow us at Melbourne Capital Group on Facebook, LinkedIn and Instagram.
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se e yo u n ex t month by ExpatGo Staff
Beyond Rice
D
uring the days before, during, and even after the recent Hari Raya celebrations, you may have noticed roadside stalls set up with rows of long bamboo cylinders leaning over smouldering fires. Some expats live here for years before learning about this traditional festive food, and if you haven’t indulged in the goodness of lemang, you’re missing out. Lemang is a traditional Malaysian dish made of glutinous rice and coconut milk cooked inside a bamboo stick. This popular dish is usually served during festive occasions, especially during Raya (Eid al-Fitr), where it is typically eaten with rendang, the beloved spicy meat dish. Lemang has a long history in Malaysia, dating back to the 15th century when the country was a major hub for spice trading. According to legend, the dish was first created by a group of Malay traders who needed a portable source of food that would last for days on their long journeys. They came up with the idea of cooking glutinous rice and coconut milk inside a bamboo stick, which provided a natural barrier that prevented the rice from spoiling. This technique proved so successful that it became a popular staple food for many
Lemang is typically sliced into small discs for serving
Malaysians, and eventually, a beloved cultural dish. Making lemang is a time-consuming process that requires a lot of patience and attention to detail. First, the bamboo sticks must be cleaned and soaked in water for at least four hours to prevent them from catching fire while cooking. The glutinous rice is then washed and soaked in water for a few hours before being mixed with coconut milk, salt, and water. The mixture is then poured into the bamboo stick, which is lines with banana leaves to prevent the rice from sticking to the bamboo. The long bamboo sticks are then angled over an open fire and left for several hours until the rice is fully cooked and has absorbed all the coconut milk. Depending on the fuel source for the fire – which could be wood, charcoal, or even dried coconut husks – some lemang gets subtly infused with a delightful smokiness. While lemang is primarily associated with the Malay culture, different regions of Malaysia have their own unique variations of the dish. Along the east coast of Malaysia, for example, lemang is often served with serunding, a type of meat floss made of chicken or beef, and sambal kacang, a spicy peanut sauce. In Sarawak, lemang is served with
Cooked over a wood fire, lemang takes on a slight smokiness
bamboo chicken, a traditional dish where chicken is cooked inside a bamboo stick along with the rice. Despite its popularity, however, lemang is not widely available outside of Malaysia, which is a shame considering how delicious and unique this dish is. If you’re lucky enough to be in Malaysia during Hari Raya season, you’ll be able to find lemang being sold at roadside stalls all over the country. Some well-regarded stalls are wildly popular and locals frequently wait in line for hours to purchase their share of lemang from these places. Stalls may pop up here and there during other festive times, but the real proliferation is during Raya. Predictably, prices for lemang are inflated during these high-demand periods. City dwellers also usually pay a premium, with sticks of lemang frequently selling in KL for up to double the price of their counterparts in rural Malaysian towns. Alternatively, you can try making it yourself at home, though be warned, it’s not an easy dish to master. Fortunately, there are a few places that offer lemang year-round, with Greater Kuala Lumpur’s top choices being Lemang Bonda in Subang, Lemang Daun Lerek Greenwood near Batu Caves, and Pak Ali Lemang Asli in Ulu Klang, just on the MRR2 Highway. Those in Petaling Jaya can pop over to Lemang 12 in PJS 2. With all of these places, making a quick call before heading over is advisable, since lemang is so popular and regularly sells out. One of the country’s more unique offerings, lemang is a beloved traditional dish in Malaysia that has been enjoyed for centuries. Its unique cooking technique and delicious flavour make it a must-try for anyone living in or visiting the country, especially during festive occasions.
Photo credits: Page 18 eBird | Page 19 Mathew Schwartz/Unsplash, Blogs@NTU | Page 20 The Nature Conservancy, NOAA, surfercom | Page 21 Earthcom | Page 22 Tu7uh, CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons | Page 23 Sarawak Tourism Board | Page 26 Marine Stewardship Council, Healthline | Page 30 Stephen Hogg | Page 32 Stephen Hogg | Page 40 GKA | Page 64 Ajinomoto | Page 65 Walmart | Page 65 Taste Atlas, GNI
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